Gallagher's Travels: Letter From the Editor: April 2006

Letter from the Editor

April 2006

Dear Friends,

I’d like to divert from my usual personal notes and let you read an e mail we just received from a favorite company in New Orleans, The New Orleans Cooking Experience. This opportunity to hear the real story of real peoples lives not media or government hype should not be missed.

During my last trip to this fine city—previous to Katrina—we were privileged to stop for an all too short "cooking" lesson and feasting at their gorgeous restored property the House on Bayou Road a Select Registry Inn located about 12 blocks from the French Quarter, about mid-way between the Vieux Carre and the New Orleans Museum of Fine Arts.

A Few Treats

Here is where I ate some of the best New Orleans cooking I’ve tasted in three visits to this city. Their Calas (sometimes Callas), a sweet rice fritter are to die for.

Making Calas at the New Orleans Cooking Experience

Whether you re making your tenth trip or first be sure and contact the House on Bayou Road for any kind of advice, cooking lessons, wonderful guest rooms, fine dining and more.

Happy Trails!

Mary E. Gallagher

mary@gallagherstravels.com

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Dear Friends of the New Orleans Cooking Experience,

Spring is here in New Orleans and we’re enjoying wonderful Pontchatoula strawberries and looking forward to tasting some Creole tomatoes. In the meantime we are savoring the oysters and complaining about the expensive crawfish.

I thought this was a good time to bring you up to date on both NOCE and the region’s recovery from the storm, or “The Thing” as one of our Times-Picayune columnists calls it.

New Orleans and the surrounding area:

We have a lot going on, and at the same time not enough going on.

Mardi Gras was a truly uplifting event for all of us. Families and friends, who hadn’t seen each other since the storm, got together to enjoy the nice weather and the spectacle. Many of the displaced also returned home to enjoy our annual ritual, if only for a few days. There was much laughter, many tears and the most important thing of all: the telling of our stories. "How did you do?" is always the first order of business.

I live on the beginning of the parade route and Sunday the entire neutral ground (our word for median) was filled beyond capacity with families, neighbors and friends laughing, barbecuing and having reunions…and, of course, catching lots of beads. After nearly six months of strife and sadness, it was a great release to have this moment of normalcy in our lives before returning to the enormous challenge of rebuilding our world.

Some days it seems as if we take one step forward and two steps back. On other days it is the reverse and we rejoice in our small victories.

Thousands and thousands of our residents are caught in the FEMA/SBA/Corps of Engineers/Insurance Company/telephone company/electric company dance of confusion. It is truly ground hog day everyday. People have FEMA trailers in their yards, but no keys. People fax and deliver their applications to FEMA and SBA seven, eight, nine times and on the tenth time no one can find it and they are told to send it again. People who want to rebuild are hesitant because they don’t have the new flood maps—which were promised in January, then in March and now may not arrive until September. If they rebuild and the maps come out stating that they need to be two inches higher, they will not be able to get any insurance.

Last week, the Army Corps of Engineers—for the first time before a U.S. Senate subcommittee—acknowledged that the catastrophe was caused by "design failure"—not by Hurricane Katrina. So it is now official that the drowning of New Orleans and St. Bernard Parish is the largest engineering failure in the history of the United States.

We love and hate the trash at the same time. It’s pretty amazing to see the entire contents of people’s lives, including their walls and kitchen cabinets, out on the street. On the other hand it signifies that the owners have declared they have returned and have begun the process of rebuilding. Every time the detritus of one family’s former life is removed, it means they are restarting their life. When suddenly three more houses on the block put their “stuff” out on the street, it is another big mess to clean up, but the significance is not lost on us.

We are blessed with the most wonderful volunteers. There are old people, college students, families and friends coming and going everyday. People are giving up their vacations and their spring breaks to help us. My favorite story is the "hippie tent" in St. Bernard Parish. As far as I know, no one knows who they are, or where they come from. They erected these big tents in St. Bernard and serve three meals a day and offer hot showers for the residents. They’ve been there since at least November. St. Bernard Parish is a very conservative community of people who have lived there for generations. And, they’re not exactly the kind of people who bonded with hippies—either in the 60s or now. So it is both amusing and touching to see how the community has embraced this group. They even had their own marching krewe in St. Bernard’s one lovely Mardi Gras parade.

I want to say one more thing about the people of New York City. There is a special bond that has emerged. Perhaps it is because they alone can truly share and understand our emotions and our wounds. But, they have been a constant presence here—helping small businesses organize, sending volunteers and equipment, putting on fund-raising events, coming as tourists, etc. Even down to the fact that they flooded the Empire State Building in purple, green and gold lights for Mardi Gras.

Daily life is still strange. It is also often sad and always confusing. We have a very long way to go. Everyone has good days and bad days. So much is gone and yet so much is here or coming back. It sometimes takes us twice a long to get simple daily chores done since "The Thing," and everyone is busy all the time. We are fighting among ourselves about important things and stupid things, but it is like family fights—the love is still there. After all, it’s senseless to complain about the fact that some electric company from out of town completely topped out a hundred year old oak tree in front of your house, when other people are still trying to get electricity.

We still don’t have flood maps, we are having an election, we can’t wait for Jazz Fest, the levees and flood walls aren’t rebuilt yet, hurricane season starts in June and everybody wants everyone to come back—including more of our visitors.

Life at NOCE

We are all so happy to be open. To share the gift of New Orleans food with both local guests and visitors is a great pleasure for all of us.

Jane has finally returned from North Carolina, so we are completely whole again. She is living in a great old house in Mid-City that did not flood while she and her husband try to figure out what to do about their home in Lakeview/Gentilly. They are among those waiting for the flood maps.

The House on Bayou Road looks beautiful—although we still miss the old barn and the plants in the garden are a bit smaller.

Frank Brigtsen will be in New York on May 8^th to participate in the James Beard Foundation Awards celebrating "New Orleans: a Culinary Legacy." Poppy is just back from a Miami Slow Food presentation about preserving New Orleans food history and she is still working to help our food producers and restaurants. Chiqui is teaching, doing some catering and helping out in some of the family businesses. Michael, who has a second life as a tour guide, has been doing some cruising and touring, as well as some teaching. Susan is still in Baton Rouge, but commuting into New Orleans to teach.

We are putting together a terrific schedule for our weekly Thursday night "Great Chefs Summer Series." We hope to have Tory McPhail of Commander’s Palace and Michelle McRaney from Mr. B’s Bistro back again. And, we are hopeful that Ross Eirich of Galatoire’s and Anton Schulte of La Petite Grocery will join us as well. Frank Brigtsen, who will teach several of the series classes, has also invited Leah Chase to join us as well. We hope to have a schedule out in the next several weeks.

Thank you so very much for all of your support and good wishes. It means a lot to all of us to hear from you. I hope you try and enjoy the recipes.

All best wishes,

Judy

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~o0o~

RECIPES FROM NOCE:

We have selected some great recipes for you—a combination of old and new, Cajun and Creole. To celebrate spring we are including Poppy’s fabulous Chicken Sauce Piquante recipe. Although this is a Cajun dish, it starts off a little like a Creole sauce. Please do not think of shrimp floating in spaghetti sauce. This is the real thing and as Poppy says, "It’s a foxy, russet brown." The "piquante" part gives it a sharp Cajun "bite" that makes you want to have a second serving.

We hope you also enjoy Frank’s Seafood Jambalaya. It’s a Cajun dish and this recipe is unbelievable. For your information, jambalaya was not served much in New Orleans before Paul Prudhomme introduced the city to joys the Cajun cooking. Today our younger generations think jambalaya has always been on New Orleans tables.

And finally, I think you’ll adore Chiqui’s Oyster and Artichoke soup. I think the best way to characterize it is by calling it a "Modern Creole" recipe that evolved over the last forty years or so. It’s a delightful, delicious and very sophisticated dish.

From Poppy Tooker

CHICKEN SAUCE PIQUANTE

INGREDIENTS

1 whole chicken (cut into 6-8 pieces)
flour for dusting
1 cup oil for frying
hot sauce and cayenne
1 onion, chopped
1 large bell pepper, chopped
3 stalks celery, chopped
1 cup flour
3 cloves garlic, minced
6 jalapeno peppers (seeded and minced)
1 - 2 lb. can tomatoes
3 bay leaves
3 T thyme
1/4 cup red wine vinegar
salt, cayenne and hot sauce
1 bunch green onions, sliced
1/4 cup chopped parsley

Marinate the chicken pieces in hot sauce and cayenne. Toss lightly in flour. Heat oil in a skillet and pan fry the chicken until browned. Remove the chicken from the pan and reserve and pour off approximately half of the grease. Add the 1/2 cup of flour and make a dark roux. Add the onions and brown, then add the celery and bell pepper. Add the remainder of the ingredients (except the green onions and parsley,) and return the chicken to the pan. Simmer until chicken is fork tender. Add the green onions and parsley and simmer 5 more minutes, then serve over rice.

Yield: 6 - 8 portions.

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~o0o~

SEAFOOD JAMBALAYA

Frank Brigtsen—Brigtsen’s Restaurant

Yield: 16 servings as a side dish
Cooking time: 1 hour, 15 minutes

CHEF’S NOTES: The word jambalaya is derived from the French word for ham, jambon. Although ham is excellent for jambalaya, the main ingredient in most Louisiana jambalayas is andouille, a spicy smoked pork sausage. In this recipe, we substitute fresh tuna and shrimp for the meat, and the “seasoning” vegetables (onion, celery, and bell pepper) are added in two stages. This is done to intensify the flavor. Also, in a recipe such as this where you are adding several herbs and spices at the same time, it is helpful to pre-measure them before you start cooking.

INGREDIENTS

2 tablespoons pomace olive oil or vegetable oil
2 cups finely diced bell peppers (red, yellow, & green), ¼-inch pieces
4 cups finely diced celery, ¼-inch pieces
6 cups finely diced yellow onion, ¼-inch pieces
2 bay leaves
3 cups diced fresh tuna, ½-inch pieces
2 tablespoons salt
½ teaspoon ground black pepper
¼ teaspoon ground white pepper
¼ teaspoon ground cayenne pepper
2 teaspoons dried whole-leaf sweet basil
2 teaspoons dried whole-leaf oregano
1 teaspoon dried whole-leaf thyme
2 tablespoons minced fresh garlic
1 tablespoon very finely chopped fresh jalapeno pepper
1 cup canned whole tomatoes, pureed with their juice
2 cups peeled fresh Louisiana shrimp (save heads and shells for stock)
5 ¼ cups shrimp stock
3 cups Louisiana popcorn rice (or basmati rice)
2 cups thinly sliced green onions (green part only)

Heat the oil in a large pot over high heat. Add 1½ cup of the bell peppers, 3 cups of the celery, 4 cups of the onions, and the bay leaves. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the vegetables become very dark brown (caramelized), 12-15 minutes.
Add the tuna, salt, black pepper, white pepper, cayenne, basil, oregano, thyme, garlic, and jalapeno. Cook, stirring occasionally, for 3-4 minutes.
Add the remaining bell peppers, celery, and onions. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the onions become soft and clear, 3-4 minutes.
Add the tomatoes. Cook, stirring occasionally, for 5 minutes.
Add the shrimp and cook, stirring occasionally, until the shrimp turn pink, 2-3 minutes.
Add the shrimp stock and bring the mixture to a boil. Stir in the raw rice. Reduce heat to very low, cover and cook until the rice is done, 20-25 minutes.
Stir in the green onions and serve immediately.

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~o0o~

From Chiqui Collier

OYSTER ARTICHOKE SOUP

INGREDIENTS

1 stick of unsalted butter
4 heaping tablespoons all-purpose flour
3 green onions, thinly sliced (white and green parts)
1 leek, thinly sliced and well rinsed (white part only)
2 ribs celery, minced
2 cloves garlic, finely minced
2 cans artichoke hearts, drained, rinsed and coarsely chopped
4-6 cups rich chicken stock (preferably homemade)
Cayenne and white peppers to taste
1 teaspoon kosher salt
1 tablespoon Lea & Perrins
1 teaspoon fresh thyme leaves
1 large bay leaf
Crystal hot sauce to taste
2 pints fresh oysters and their liquid
2 cups heavy cream
2 tablespoons fresh flat-leaf parsley, chopped

Melt butter in a 4-6 quart saucepan. Stir in flour and cook over a medium low heat to form a blonde roux. Cook for about 5-7 minutes just until the flour starts to take on a light brown color similar to a light caramel. Stir in the green onions, leeks, celery and minced garlic and cook just until the vegetables soften; about 3 minutes. Gradually add the stock and the reserved oyster water, stirring constantly. Add all the remaining ingredients with the exception of the oysters, cream and parsley.

Simmer the soup covered on low heat for about 30 minutes. About 10 minutes before serving, stir in the heavy cream and the parsley and simmer for 10 more minutes. Taste and correct seasoning.

To Serve: Sauté the reserved oysters in a pan with 4 tablespoons unsalted butter just until the edges of the oysters curl. Immediately place a few oysters in each serving bowl and top with the heated soup.

Yield: 8 servings

Judy Jurisich

504/945-9104
866/500-NOCE (toll free)
2275 Bayou Road
New Orleans, LA 70119
www.neworleanscookingexperience.com
judy@neworleanscookingexperience.com

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