Gallagher's Travels: Letter From the Editor: November 2007

Letter from the Editor

November 2007

Baltimore photos by Bill Wooby

Dear Friends,

Am I the only person that thinks the commercialism of Christmas can at least wait until after Thanksgiving? Some stores were starting their displays before Halloween and that is disgusting.

With the high cost of mailing anything these days I prefer to send checks or gift cards although I do recall reading an article that said one should check the small print on gift cards to make sure they don’t have added fees, particularly bank-issued cards or quick expiration dates. Not wanting you to think I m a total scrooge; my family members are all trying to get rid of their excess possessions and money or a gift card lets them get what they want or need. Actually they could all come to my house and pick out what they like and I wouldn’t even notice it was gone!

The most successful at reducing clutter has been my sister who moved three times in the last two years and each place has been smaller.

Heifer International in Rawanda

My daughter has given me a certificate from Heifer International (www.Heifer.org. and another similar program is World Vision (www.worldvision.org) or my favorite orphanage for over twenty years El Hogar in Honduras (www.elhogar.org). Here they started with a few boys off the street and today have 200 attending school and in various forms of training to be tradesmen.

We just did two trips fairly close together and I’m leaving again after Thanksgiving.

Tonight, while packing, I realized "Boy I love to travel." However there are times like waiting in the airport and on the plane plus taking your clothes off at airports—does anyone really believe that someone will try a shoe or bra bomb again? Even if I say "metal body parts" they still end up doing a pat down and more thorough exam. Eating a gazillion meals out including some ptomaine producers, a noisy hotel room, and getting the wrong directions are things that make one wonder about their sanity to love this work.

Historic Fells Point, Baltimore

It is great to revisit places that you’ve been at least once before and study them from another angle. This was the case for a few days in Baltimore and Pittsburgh.

Two cities that in many ways are similar i.e. tons of places to eat in every price range, neighborhoods retaining their original ethnic heritage (and restaurants), museums and galleries focusing on the diversity of this countries varied heritage.

Baltimore which I have explored many times in the 20 years of living in near by metro DC never fails to turn up something I haven’t covered before. The Walters and Baltimore Museum of Art are now free, areas of blight are being renovated for good but soon cities everywhere will look the same; red brick condo buildings or four level townhouses with white vinyl trim on top of the sidewalk.

I’ll bet none features screen painting on their front doors. In the old working class areas not far from Fells Point it started as a privacy issue. Homes were narrow and built up to the sidewalk so passersby could look right in. Someone came up with the brilliant idea of painting scenes on their screens. And not only could you not see in but the person inside looked at a great piece of art that provided privacy.

There are a small group of screen painters trying to keep the skill going, although I don’t believe any of the originals artists are still with us. Some folks have had their screens stolen out of their home doors and windows. Google Baltimore screen painting for an extensive list of sites.

One of the most comprehensive diversity trails to follow covers Baltimore’s Black History with the assistance of the excellent Baltimore African American Heritage and Attractions Guide published by the Baltimore Area Convention and Visitors Association. You’ll be kept busy for days and it is particularly useful if you’re planning a big family reunion in the area. In addition to the city sites, it lists places of interest in other counties throughout Maryland.

Reginald F. Lewis Museum

We went to the new Reginald F. Lewis Museum of Maryland African American History and Culture, a stunning four story building on the edge of Little Italy and the Inner Harbor attractions. In addition to their permanent collection changing exhibits for the next six to 9 months include New Visionaries Showcase: Works of Art by Phylicia Ghee, Making History: The Baltimore Mayoral Election of 1987, Textural Rhythms: Constructing the Jazz Tradition, Contemporary African American Quilts, Maryland Artist Showcase: Works of Art by Patrick Henry.

Other unique features of particular interest are the Learning Resource Center where visitors can learn about the African American experience from the past to the present, both throughout Maryland and internationally. Learning stations with touch-screen computers, printers and Internet access will link you to current and historical information via the nation’s most comprehensive Web sites.

Years ago I had a friend doing oral histories of African Americans in Alexandria, Virginia regarding their Black theaters so seeing the Oral History Recording & Listening Studio here that allows visitors to listen to histories and stories—as told by Maryland’s famous and not-so-famous African Americans—and record their own was terrific. Why not arrange to have your grandparents visit and record some of their history?

There is also a 200-Seat state-of-the-art theater hosting a variety of events for the whole family, including theatrical, dance and musical performances; film festivals; lectures; panel discussions and receptions.

Gift shop

The museum has a small café with a varied menu and an outdoor area for favorable weather also a very nice gift shop.

I need to mention the building itself and quote from materials on their website "designed by an award-winning architectural team, the Frelon Group/RTKL, a joint venture, held fast to the guiding concepts set forth by the museum’s leadership: Spirituality; Joy and Vibrancy; Resilience; The Power of Knowledge, Values and Principles; and The Importance of Family and Cultural Continuity".

You will feel these values when you’re on the outside and then consistently inside.

So many black history museums I’ve been to throughout this country—some in homes, others tiny block buildings most hardly ever open. All contain valuable historical information but here is an extraordinary place for African American people and everyone to visit. Reginald F. Lewis, Manny Jackson (Honeywell Executive and now Harlem Globetrotters owner) and other outstanding successful businessmen are important role models for youth in the black community.

When planning your visit check the website for specific directions, parking, open hours and days, and their reasonable admission prices.

Reginald F. Lewis Museum
830 E. Pratt Street
Baltimore, MD 21202
443-263-1800

www.africanamericanculture.org

Another interesting place I’d never been before but would be happy to take

up a residence on the first or second floor is the Frederick Douglass Isaac Myers Maritime Park, right on the Harbor, a National Heritage site and showcase of African American maritime history.

Frederick Douglass Isaac Myers Maritime Park

The setting is magnificent. Here the Chesapeake Marine Railway and Dry Dock Company was constructed only a few feet away on Philpot Street. Its character is preserved in the oldest remaining waterfront industrial building, the Sugar House, also referred to as the Coffee House. Right on the waters edge of Baltimore’s east harbor, you can explore the grounds once walked by Frederick Douglass and Isaac Myers while viewing the modern day harbor. The Baltimore Waterfront Promenade surrounds the harbor side of the building and there are park benches to rest or eat you lunch.

Frederick Douglass Bronze

A really large bronze sculpted head (‘wide x 6’tall weighing 1,100 lbs) of Frederick Douglass is the place everyone wants their photo taken. Sculptor and creator of the piece Marc Andre Robinson attended Maryland Institute of Art in Baltimore among other fine schools.

There are exhibits on the saga of Frederick Douglass’s life in Baltimore as an enslaved child and young man, If you’ve followed any of the history of Douglass you’ll know he really traveled around with one home in the Anacostia area of Washington, DC and his grave in Rochester, New York. A timeline of his life’s history from birth to death is on the website.

As notable is the life of Isaac Myers, a free born African American who became a national leader with many credits to his name including the formation of the Chesapeake Marine Railway and Dry Dock Company [CRDDC] (first known as the Maryland Mutual Joint Stock Company and the John Smith Company) with fifteen other African American men

Here you’ll learn about the founding of the Chesapeake Marine Railway and Dry Dock Company, the establishment of the African American Community in Baltimore during the 1800’s and in my favorite building the shipbuilding traditions of the Chesapeake bay.

Living Classrooms

Another aspect of this harbor site is the Living Classrooms Foundation that presents opportunities for people of all ages to "Learn by Doing". Probably ten years ago I had the privilege of going out on the Lady Maryland schooner with the Living Classrooms staff and a group of at-risk school children from the Baltimore schools. It was a great experience in spite of terrible weather! We caught and then freed all kinds of creatures from a net in the water. The kids were wonderful and seemed amazed at the entire experience. Here at the Maritime Park we were able to do a little work on a boat but to be truthful it’s lucky none of us had to depend on doing this kind of work for our next meal.

Frederick Douglass Isaac Myers Maritime Park 1417 Thames Street
Baltimore, Maryland 21231
Tel: 410.685.0295 x 252

www.douglassmyers.org

For one lunch we ventured to the historic (1782) Lexington St. Market and although I haven’t been there in quite a few years it does keep changing in some of its "diversity" aspects.

Lexington Market

Like farmers markets around the country, especially in large cities, many of the 140 vendors are now from Vietnam, Thailand and other foreign countries offering their unique produce and products. In Baltimore, they were serving everything from hot and spicy Thai dishes to crab cakes or southern fried chicken. Unfortunately we were on the go and eating out of ones hands or trying to balance in the crowded aisles was quite a feat. There are one or two areas to sit down and eat but I didn’t notice them until it was too late. Be advised it is quite busy at lunch time and on weekends even more so.

La Scala Restorante

Another evening took us to Little Italy and a wonderful multi course dinner at the romantic restaurant La Scala. Chef Nino Germano's cuisine is classic Italian that includes basics like minestrone thick with vegetables, plus traditional favorites; scampi with garlic, veal piccata and chicken Parmigiana. This is sophisticated yet good home-style cooking in an Italian atmosphere. They’ve continued to expand and now have an indoor bocce ball court, larger dining room and several areas for private event space. On the way is a new wine tasting room.

Bocce Ball Zealot!

Polenta in any form is a favorite of mine and at La Scala, Polenta alla Griglia is an antipasti selection I tried and enjoyed. Its grilled slices of polenta are served in a savory sauce of cognac, pancetta, and porcini mushroom. Quite a tasty combination. After an interesting Caesar salad featuring lightly sautéed romaine, I’ve never been fond of hot or grilled lettuces and in this case it made the salad interesting but my personal taste is to the original including anchovy filet. For my entrée, I moved onto Gamberi a Granchi Alfred with large gulf shrimp and clump crab meat in a cream sauce served over fettuccini.

My friend Bill had the Costoletta alla Griglia, a large tender grilled veal chop, one of the specialities, flavored with olive oil, lemon, garlic and fresh rosemary. Both of us were more than substantially satisfied with the amount of food, and outstanding quality.

Chef Nino Germano and Nick Angelini

Our wines were matched to our food choices by Nick Angelini, whose wine knowledge, experience and guiding hand make for superb results. With the antipasti we had Aquinas Merlot. Wonderfully smooth and produced by Aquinas in the North Coast California area. Myself, no Einstein regarding viniculture, but I do know what tastes good and I do like merlot. This is one of probably only five wines in my life I’d be interested in purchasing for home use.

The next three courses were as well paired including a Castello di Volpaia served with the Cannolis for dessert.

La Scala Ristorante
1012 Eastern Ave
Baltimore, MD 21202
(410) 783-9209

www.lascaladining.com

We also have coverage of two new great exhibits in Baltimore under Museums and Galleries.

Coming up…more news on Baltimore and our incredible cuisine tour of another great eating town, Pittsburgh.