Gallagher's Travels: Letter From the Editor: March 2008

Letter from the Editor

March 2008

Dear Friends,

We're here in eastern North Carolina sitting out some heavy storms and tornado warnings tonight and it reminds me of growing up in the Twin Cities of Minnesota where warning sirens were a regular summer occurrence. My grandmother was afraid of lightening and thunder so all the grandchildren had to remain calm through storms to keep her believing there was nothing to worry about.

Perhaps we're all that way when it comes to being unfamiliar about an experience. A little history in our background and away we go respectful but fearless. I don't mind being sick or injured by my own hand or carelessness but to think that some doctor's office or hospital is going to infect me with hepatitis through their unsanitary practices, as in recent news reports, is infuriating.

Actually I've had two surgery infections so far in this lifetime and the first, ten years or so back, almost knocked me off. The second just a short while ago has taken weeks and buckets of assorted antibiotics to quell. I always joke that they should double wash/sterilize the instruments but now it's getting to be a more serious issue especially if a nurse doesn't not to reuse a syringe. There is a major difference in third world hospitals and those in say France or the US and for that reason perhaps we've become too trusting here. Although now I carry travel insurance year round that covers me anywhere more than 150 miles from home.

You would be wise to investigate purchasing a plan if there is any travel in your future and not necessarily just because you re going to Siberia or other far flung destinations.

A fall or auto accident can occur anywhere. I've used www.Medjet.com, American Express and an internet search will turn up many others.

Off or shoulder seasons are the time we travel writers are on the road the most and this winter has been no exception. In addition to Pittsburgh, Ireland and areas of the southeast coastline like Amelia Island, Savannah, Charleston, Kiawah Island and Bald Head Island. Home for three days, I'm packing and dreaming of the Northeast and Northwest.

One holiday coming up that actually I, born a “Gallagher” really haven't celebrated including drinking green beer is St. Patrick's Day. Luckily after visiting Ireland this winter one of the highlights was meeting up with one of the worlds and certainly Ireland's foremost cooking authority—cookbook author and teacher Darina Allen. I want to share her recipe for that favorite St. Patrick's Day Corned Beef and Cabbage.

Darina kindly gave me an autographed copy of her newer Easy Entertaining cookbook autographed for my sister, the chef. That was before Christmas and I haven't sent it to her yet, still testing the marvelous recipes myself. How does one know if the gift is really good if you don't use it first?

Farmgate Café and the Market

Actually in many trips to Ireland I don't remember eating corned beef and cabbage yet although it was on the menu at the very popular Farmgate Café in the English Market in Cork City where we all enjoyed a fine lunch.

Although corned beef is "almost a forgotten flavor in Ireland," according to Allen it was once an extremely popular and important food for all classes. To "corn" something is simply to preserve it in salty brine (the term corn refers to the coarse grains of salt used for curing) and my sisters are into brining turkey for Thanksgiving and other meats. In the days before refrigeration, corning was essential for storing meat.

Corned beef has always been associated with Cork City, because, Allen explains, "that was the provisioning port for boats before they crossed the Atlantic." In fact, between the 1680s and 1825, corning beef was Cork City's most important industry. The meat was exported to Britain, continental Europe, and as far away as Newfoundland and the West Indies.

Darina and Myrtle Allen

These days in Ireland, corned beef is still most associated with County Cork, where Allen's Ballymaloe Cookery School and the Ballymaloe House; Extraordinary places you must visit and the wonderful restaurant started by Allen's mother-in-law, Myrtle Allen, are based. Walking the gardens and visiting the Shell House is a cook and garden persons dream…well certainly my dream fulfilled. If I have enough time left, I plan to replicate portions.

According to Allen, "The Irish economy is very, very strong, and with that comes changes in people's diets," she says. And my visits to outstanding Irish contemporary gourmet restaurants one after another in the last few years certainly bear that out. Then as everything comes around again, Irish chefs are serving a lot of peasant foods and highlighting them again," says Allen.

"Over here, just as over on your side [of the Atlantic], a lot of younger people are getting involved in curing their own bacons and hams and things again, making sausages and salamis," says Allen, who runs a series of "forgotten skills" courses at Ballymaloe Cookery School, teaching students how to keep chickens, make homemade sausages, build a smokehouse, and so forth.

Darina Allen's Corned Beef and Cabbage

4 lb corned brisket of beef
3 large carrots, cut into large chunks
6 to 8 small onions
1 teaspoon dry English mustard
large sprig fresh thyme and some parsley stalks, tied together
1 cabbage
salt and freshly ground pepper

Put the brisket into a saucepan with the carrots, onions, mustard and the herbs. Cover with cold water, and bring gently to a boil. Simmer, covered, for 2 hours. Discard the outer leaves of the cabbage, cut in quarters and add to the pot. Cook for a further 1 to 2 hours or until the meat and vegetables are soft and tender.

Serve the corned beef in slices, surrounded by the vegetables and cooking liquid. Serve with lots of floury potatoes and freshly made mustard.

Darina Allen is the author of several books, including Irish Traditional Cooking, Darina Allen's Ballymaloe Cooking School Cookbook, and A Year at Ballymaloe Cookery School. She is currently working on a book about forgotten cooking skills. Go to www.cookingisfun.ie to learn more about Allen and Ballymaloe Cookery School.

See our other stories on Ireland and Darina Allen under International Destinations.

Happy trails!

Mary E. Gallagher

mary@gallagherstravels.com

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