Gallagher's Travels: Home

Letter from the Editor

March 2004

Dear Friends:

Instead of my usual and occasionally acerbic editorial commentary, I’m posting this photo album of the last few weeks and some of the beautiful places we’ve just visited.

Going in chronological order let’s start near home in Georgetown—Washington, DC

My favorite entrée: Artic Char with Gnocchi and Brussels Sprouts

The Mendocino Grille and Wine Bar, Georgetown has a well deserved reputation as a superb restaurant and wine bar with some of the best food and wait staff anywhere. Well paced service in a reasonably quiet and intimate atmosphere, superior fresh ingredients prepared in unique and wonderful ways by Drew Trautmann and Daniel Bortnick earned big gold stars in my book.

Onion and Goat Cheese Tart

Outstanding wines, special tasting events along with everything else adds up to a very special place for any time or that "pull out all the stops" exceptional evening.

In-house smoked trout appetizer

Living up to its vaunted reputation during our dinner, we’d go back in an instant.

2917 M Street, NW, Washington , DC 20007 Tel 202 333 2912. www.mendocinodc.com

American Visionary

The American Visionary Museum, Baltimore is truly a unique place just across the inner harbor from the Aquarium. All generations will enjoy the exhibits and garden – plan to visit on a regular basis. Their annual Kinetic Sculpture race of wacky, imaginative, totally human powered works of art designed to travel on land, through mud, and over deep harbor waters every spring is an event of unbelievable magnitude and innovation.

James Harold Jennings Folk Art

Spectacular American Folk art promoting ingenuity and individual’s creative endeavor at its finest in wonderful and sometimes controversial art forms.

Bicycle

Arrange to have lunch or dinner at Joy of America - the on-site restaurant with its great food. Request a window table with your reservation for a spectacular harbor view. Everything follows an art theme from the menus with natural stick spines to "Joy" written on your very good black bean soup.

Joy of America Restaurant

On street and metered parking is usually not a problem. www.avam.org

Keswick Hall

The Keswick Hall of Monticello, Charlottesville, Virginia, sets the pace for your visit as you drive up saying "wow" at its impressive Italianate architecture surrounded by 600 acres of rolling picturesque countryside. Voted by every top guide and Gold List as one of the best hotels and inns, here is the lap of luxury with a definite European flair. The spacious, quiet and individually decorated 48 guestrooms suites, an amazingly accomplished staff, magnificent facilities, spectacular dining – you name it all go together to shout but tastefully, of course "What a glorious way to live!"

My room at Keswick

Indoor and outdoor pools, tennis, Palmer golf course, comprehensive spa, a wide range of nearby shopping, historic sites, winery tours and afternoon tea.

Indoor Pool

Feeling the need to work or entertain? Perhaps a wedding? Keswick Hall has more than 7000 square feet of meeting and conference space, making it one of the best settings for business and social gatherings whether you’re having 8 or 400. During our visit, a handsome young couple was working out the details and tasting samples for their spring nuptials and reception here. I envy those guests.

On winter evenings or anytime relax or dine in front of several fireplaces located throughout the properties public rooms. So easy to forget everything but pleasant thoughts, you’ll need to make this at least a once a year retreat like so many regulars. An easy drive from Washington, fly in from afar or take the train. Plenty of activities for your whole family.

Chef John Bond and the happy diner

In the Main Dining Room, guests can enjoy a combination of European classic recipes and the best of modern American cuisine, followed by an after-dinner glass of port by the fireside in the Great Hall. Executive Chef John Bond provided a wonderful array of entrees including melt in your mouth lamb, probably the best I’ve ever eaten, a lavish seafood pot better than bouillabaisse and two nights in a row I splurged on different foie gras appetizers.

Seafood Pot

Chef Bond is taking full advantage of the outstanding game, meat and produce from local growers. Virginia ’s fine wines are also featured.

Then "try to pick a favorite" dessert so why not try two? I’m never one who can just have a dish of sorbet no matter what they say, I forge ahead stuffing myself with whipped cream and sauces, chocolate and all those other sweets that make you roll in pain in your room an hour later. Some of us never grow up.

Whiskey Bread Pudding

The Palmer Room in the Club is the perfect location to enjoy cocktails, lunch or dinner. The Broccoli soup with blue cheese was sensational as were our Kung Pao Chicken and Southwestern Shrimp salads from Chef Alan Archer. Here one can also enjoy the Golf-View Terraces for casual lunch or the Bar for cocktails after a round of golf. Keswick will be opening a new dining spot in the main building this spring.

Southwest Shrimp Salad

I aimed for afternoon tea but spent too much time in the spa, arriving in time for just a quick treat. In-room dining is also available, something I frequently find convenient when arriving at odd hours.

At Keswick everyone is so kind and intent on providing for guests every need. You will truly feel to the "manor born".

Keswick Hall 701 Club Drive
Charlottesville Virginia 22947
1 800 274 5391
keswick@keswick.com
www.keswick.com

AirJamaica

Then we hop on Air Jamaica at BWI for a nonstop quick ride to Montego Bay, Jamaica. In fact with good weather, I fly faster to Montego Bay then return to my house in Arlington approximately 65 miles from the airport after navigating customs and immigration, then finding a shuttle - a good trek from the Air Jamaica counter.

Our first few days are at the Half Moon Bay Resort, Montego Bay sitting up against the blue Caribbean on 400 acres of lush grounds with miles of white sand beach.

Half Moon Beach

There is no end of things to do in this resort "city". You can travel about with a golf cart, bicycle or on foot. Every 20 minutes a shuttle bus makes a circular trip from the main building to the Robert Trent Jones golf course, shopping area, past the spectacular and full service spa and fitness center with trainer and other areas including the volley ball, basketball and badminton courts. Then features like 13 tennis and four squash courts, three swimming pools plus private pools at villas and cottages, six restaurants and six bar and snack facilities and nightly entertainment will keep you busy. I could not do it all even sacrificing my little afternoon naps. The resort has undergone massive renovations in 2003 and was sparkling.

Teatime

One teatime, Jose, a classical violin player entertained on the Seagrape Terrace. Using a modern synthesizer he was accompanied by wonderful guitar and other "electronic" musicians.

Do check in with Stella Gray, spa manager extraordinaire and determine the best treatment for you. My reflexology was amazing and a helpful cure in decompressing from the plane ride and rush to get out of town. Services of all kinds are available for singles or couples.

Half Moon from the catamaran

My favorite water sport is always a passive sail on the small catamarans that allow you to almost lie in the water! Kayaks, snorkeling and scuba diving are very popular and everything you can think of is available. Next time I WILL do the para sailing. They also have a swim with the dolphin’s beach area that was under renovation during my visit.

Half Moon has, on grounds, a 24 hour full service medical center and dialysis center.

Offering a wide range of accommodations from five bedroom villas to spacious sea view rooms. Let that Caribbean sun, sea and breeze lull you into heavenly peace and recharge those batteries. An ideal place for your family reunion, wedding or business meeting. One couple told me it was their seventh visit and although they thought of trying other places Half Moon had everything they wanted so why?

Caribbean from my suite at Half Moon

My suite was as almost as large as my home and just 25 feet from the water. I toured the cottages and several villas. Whatever style you’d prefer Half Moon has excellent choices. There are children’s activities in the kiddie’s center and individual sitters are available.

Many of the staff are practically life long employees as is the case frequently at other Caribbean resorts. Beautiful Stella, the spa manager, 30 plus years, Albert the worlds best and handsomest bellman, over 30 years and Solomon, manager of the esteemed Sugar Mill restaurant 40 plus! And that is just a sampling; I guess that means the guests aren’t the only ones who love Half Moon.

Paté at lunch on the terrace

A variety of plans are available including all meals or none. A dine around option is also available. This has become a popular feature in Jamaica that allows guests to try other resorts for dinner. At Round Hill my next stop some guests had enjoyed a dinner at the fine Sugar Mill restaurant at Half Moon. Our dinner there was quite superior with outstanding service and fare.

Shrimp Entrée at the Sugar Mill

My favorite when traveling is the breakfast buffet and the opportunity to eat lots of local fresh fruit. The pineapple, oranges, mango and papaya were always fantastic. Of course everywhere has my espresso and depending on the type of machine it can be outstanding. Il Giardino the Italian restaurant was also serving tasty gnocchi with pesto and other heartier fare. There is always a choice to dine inside or on outside terraces. Although the afternoons were about 80-85 degrees I would say the evenings were quite cool perhaps as low as 70.

Half Moon Entertainment

Half Moon, Half Moon Post Office, Rose Hall
Montego Bay, Jamaica West Indies
866 548 6951
Telephone: (876) 953-2211
Fax: (876) 953-2731
www.halfmoon.com.jm

Round Hill from a distance

Our next stop was the longtime famous hideaway of the rich and famous Round Hill Hotel and Villas on the other side of Montego Bay . With 50 villas perched on a hillside hidden by lush greenery and quiet spacious grounds between each one, ours was a "famous" one. Said to have been occupied at times by Jackie and Jack and later Jackie and Aristotle. Then Ralph Lauren while he was building his own villas. We had our own pool, maid, cook and darling gardener/treasured guide Mr. Bunny. Now you’re starting to know why I don’t come home too often! Beautiful spacious hotel units hug the beach with magnificent water views.

Banana Pancakes and Fresh Fruit

I ate banana pancakes and fresh papaya every morning overlooking the Caribbean and countryside from my open dining room. A cage of Lovebirds hanging in a nearby tree added to the exotic atmosphere.

Historic Photo of Round Hill

On land the vehicle of choice is golf carts and the ever-so-kind bell staff could be called at any time to fetch you up or down the hill. My more ambitious neighbors walked both ways at least once a day.

Round Hill Terrace

Round Hill has about 1/8^th the population of Half Moon, it was very quiet with a totally different flavor. Same blue water and bright sun, a caring staff and several dining options. Next door is the Tryall with its easily accessible golf course for Round Hill guests. Complimentary shuttle service takes you into Montego Bay for shopping, Tryall for golf and Sacred Heart Church on Sundays.

All the water sports are here with personalized instructions or boatman including an amazed fellow that took me for my catamaran ride on a very windy day. We were the only boat of any type out and I hung on like it was a bucking horse. Waves drenched us over and over but never one to get motion sick, I loved it.

Executive Chef Cindy Hutson & Round Hill
Managing Director, Josef Forstmayr

For the second year, renowned Executive Chef Cindy Hutson, co-owner of the Ortanique restaurants in the states, was there as special guest chef preparing her specialties for all to enjoy. Everything we ate was wonderful whether breakfast in my villa or light lunch by the spa, great terrace lunch choices and the spectacular dinners and gala event prepared by Cindy with the able assistance of Chef Robert Herold and the Round Hill staff.

Lunch Time

That evening saw West Indian curried crab cakes, truffled butter bean raviolis, Sautéed Sea Bass, Australian lamb chops and strawberry wonton Napoleon for dessert. All paired with spectacular California wines. Many Jamaican residents and tourists from other resorts filled this dining extravaganza to capacity.

Strawberry Wonton Napoleon

Another evening featured a huge buffet with various food stations focused on Jamaican food. It was enormous and diverse but for me the best were coconut macaroon cookies aka health food! Already one of my favorites these were truly made in heaven….the next day I snuck into the kitchen and was able to talk someone into finding a few leftover ones to go with my coffee.

Each evening there was a variety of live musical entertainment on the terrace over looking the bay, under the stars, a full moon and featuring the best talent I’ve experienced in any trip to the Caribbean.

One morning Mr. Bunny took Cindy, her partner Delius and I on an excursion into Montego Bay for a stop at local outdoor food markets. I picked up fresh nutmeg with the lacey mace still attached and Cindy found a few fresh items to add to that night’s dinner. It was quite the experience and I was amazed to find out that the vendors not only sell their wares in a few square feet crammed inside this somewhat decrepit building but they also live in the same tiny space! I didn’t feel it was really appropriate to take photos although in other Jamaican markets, vendors will encourage photos if you’ll pay for the privilege.

Delius, an experienced chef in his own right, pointed out all the various fruits and vegetables native to Jamaica with explanations on their preparation and other tips.

Mr. Bunny then took us to a small craft market to view some of the local peoples work. My villa had superb Jamaican and other artwork including paintings, baskets and ceramics but I’ve never seen these sold in any "tourist" markets. Later Mr. Bunny and I hit a few regular "supermarkets" checking coffee and liquor prices. I paid $17 a pound for the Jamaican Blue beans but everyone felt liquor is cheapest at the airport.

Round Hill native crafts shop

The spa is positioned quite a distance away from the main buildings and includes an excellent weight and exercise room with trainer and daily classes and light lunches. InwardBound.com offers special yoga, mediation and nature retreats at Round Hill several times a year. Cassandra provided an outstanding facial in a white white room with great views of the turquoise water. After the main beach a lot of the shoreline is rugged offering different "water" opportunities including areas that are not in the full sun and some quite private.

It doesn’t take more than a few days at Round Hill and everyone wants to sell their home, retire and live in Jamaica forever. I’m thinking about it and feel everyone at Round Hill is now my personal friend.

Chef Cindy Hutson’s Ortanique –
Miami, Coral Gables, Las Vegas, Washington DC . www.ortaniqueontheweb.com

Round Hill
PO Box 64, Montego Bay, Jamaica, West Indies
1(800) 972-2159
Tel (876) 956-7050, Fax (876)956-7505
info@roundhilljamaica.com
www.roundhilljamaica.com

AirJamaica
www.airjamaica.com
800 523 5585

Happy Trails!

Mary E. Gallagher

mary@gallagherstravels.com

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