Gallagher's Travels: Home

Letter from the Editor

June 2004

Dear Friends,

So how about the good side of travel first?

Once again, I was able to spend a quick weekend in Jamaica for the 2nd Annual Ocho Rios Fun in the Son Gospel Fest. This was at least my fifth trip in the last few months, every time a different resort and all have been wonderful.

One of the best transportation options to the Caribbean is non-stop on AirJamaica from BWI – the Baltimore airport to Montego Bay. If one flies through Miami you're almost guaranteed a delay plus the terminal is huge and totally confusing. Delays in San Juan are not a special occasion either.

This time I opted to drive up to BWI – the Baltimore airport and stay at the conveniently located Homewood Suites. There was late season bad weather north of us and I wasn't taking any chances in missing the flight for this short weekend visit. It's easy to drive up the day or night before and stay at one of the nearby airport hotels. I was able to leave my car at no extra charge and take their airport shuttle over on the morning of my flight. Coming home, I just called the Homewood Suites desk and ten minutes later the van picked me up.

In spite of the common "myth" that BWI is one of our metro airports, for me, due to 60 miles of potential traffic problems, weather, the erratic SuperShuttle (one hour late the next week to Dulles) or a $70 cab ride, it's always chancy to get there for same day trips. Staying overnight at one of the airport area hotels relieves a lot of stress.

You'll find a lot of business travelers using suite hotels especially for extended stays; I also thought it was ideal for families. This property had a small exercise room in addition to the breakfast and dinner inclusions. Nearby are just about every chain restaurant you can think of. Although I try to avoid them, in some cases the chains can be ok do to the consistency of their menus and the clustering of several in one nearby location.

To make reservations at any Homewood Suites by Hilton hotel, go to http://www. homewoodsuites.com or call 1-800-CALL-HOME®. Homewood Suites participates in the Hilton Honors® guest reward program, which allows its members to DoubleDip® by simultaneously accumulating both hotel points and airline miles with each qualifying stay.

Fun in the Son Gospel Fest
Ocho Rios, Jamaica

The 2nd Annual Ocho Rios Gospel Fun Fest featured a lot of gospel music just a little different than the Al Green and CeCe Wynons I had been expecting. In an effort to attract more young people back to the church, we now have gospel rap. Jamaicans and visitors from tiny babies to grandmothers in wheel chairs were out in force. Waving their arms, T shirts or towels overhead, jumping up and down, cheering, singing along with the stars - generally expending huge amounts of energy for six hour stints.

It was a great celebration that gave me the opportunity to spend time with the people of Jamaica – other than "craft" vendors and waiters - something that one seldom experiences at the large inclusive resorts. Headliners included Papa San, Nicole Mullen, American Christian Hip Hop Star Toby Mac and Forgiven. The festival encompassed three days of activities including a Gospel Jazz Brunch, the Word & Worship Conference, Street Evangelism with Pastor Joyce Keane and a Volley Ball Tournament. I am sure next year will be larger with even more big name stars.

Toby Mac, original founder of dc talk, a now disbanded rap group that sold over 7 million albums while winning many awards, presented a program with the most unbelievable motion I've ever seen. It made aerobic competitions look like play school.

Admittedly I'm not a big hip hop or rap lover but in his astonishing performance he sang, danced, did hard-core rock and roll with "the spirit" and perhaps ministered in a stage performance that expended more energy than the entire 3 hours of a Cirque du Soleil performance.

Opening with Alien then Jesus Freak, I'm Yours, Somebody's Watching Me, Take The Shackles Off, Bob Marley's One Love, the folk song Day Oh and others supported by his three back-up vocalists – also acrobatic masters.

If these young men have knees and hip joints in a few years it will be a miracle. I would have guessed they were on a trampoline not a stage – jumping, crashing, rolling on the floor, running from side to side- it was incredible.

Toby Mac grew up in Northern Virginia as Toby McKeehan and fell in love with hip hop before he could drive. His proud parents were in Ocho Rios for this Festival and another chance to visit their three year old grandson.

Fun in the Son Gospel Fest
Ocho Rios, Jamaica
www.funinthesonjm.com
Toby Mac
www.tobymac.com
AirJamaica
800 523 5585
www.airjamaica.com
Jamaica Tourism
http://www.visitjamaica.com

Resort Sans Souci:

Sans Souci, resort and spa, on the northern coastline of Jamaica just two miles east from the town of Ocho Rios was my home for this all too brief weekend. Although everywhere on the island is beautiful, here was one of the most beautiful grounds and settings of any I've seen in the Caribbean. Sans Souci is built into a rugged cliff and hill side offering a lot of privacy with exotic nooks and crannies. I was constantly getting lost as buildings and landmarks were obscured by the lush vegetation.

One can be coming along the path and suddenly there are two chairs and a table poised in tropical plantings with a surprise view of the sea. Every guest I chatted with from mature couples to young newlyweds were entranced with the property and their visit. Some had five day packages and were kicking themselves for not staying longer. There were rave reviews about the tennis instructor's program too.

The award winning spa had gazebo like rooms suspended up above the sea and an incomparable view of the sky and water while your jet lag is obliterated. Some packages include manicures and pedicures with watersports and fine meals. Massages for two are available and many skin therapy and detoxification programs.

Eating out of doors on balconies and terraces with their water views at every opportunity is the best option in the Islands and the Sans Souci's offers multiple options. Friday night featured the Starlight Gala, a huge buffet with many serving stations, multiple choices under every category like ten salads, 25 desserts and on and on. There was a Caribbean flair plus a little East Indian and American adaptations to much of the offerings.

Lunchtime brought me back to the Restaurant Palazzina by the beach where I could enjoy the bountiful buffet or order off a menu. Sometimes my dining was governed by the Gospel Fest events and I did room service which is available 24 hours a day and worked very well. One evening we were leaving late so I had an opportunity to try the flagship Casanova and it was superb. They have a strict dress code but you can dine off the same menu without your tie and jacket on the terrace. Live piano music entertained us all. Actually the musical entertainment later in the evenings sounded very nice from my brief encounters.

The fitness center, two beaches, 4 pools and 3 Jacuzzis, water sports and indoor activities will keep anyone busy. All sorts of tours around Jamaica including Dunn's River Falls are offered. Shops including a slightly hidden gallery of very fine local art are also on the grounds.

Sans Souci offers complimentary weddings and renewal vows, including wedding cake, champagne, flowers, marriage license and a non- denominational marriage officer. Three working weeks, $150 and your residence for 48 hours in Jamaica before the ceremony make weddings a breeze. Guests must be 16 and older.

Sans Souci Resort and Spa
1 800 448 7702
www.sanssoucijamaica.com

Food:

I've been eating at some of the most wonderful places and not surprisingly it was starting to show! Here in Washington I finally had a chance to join friend and restaurateur Delius Shirley for the ultimate in creative fine dining provided by Chefs Scott Houghton and Matias Lagos at Shirley's stunningly beautiful restaurant Ortanique on 11th Street NW.

In late 1993 Chef Cindy Hutson met now partner, Delius Shirley. It was Shirley who convinced her to go into the restaurant business with him. In November 1994 they opened "Norma's on the Beach." To her astonishment, she achieved what Shirley said she could, a highly publicized successful restaurant, "Norma's on the Beach" was touted as "the best Caribbean restaurant in South Florida" by publications such as USA Today, New York Times, London Times, Chicago Tribune, and Ocean Drive magazines.

Cindy and Delius were special "working" guests for sold out dining events at Round Hill in Montego Bay when I was there. They recently did another cruise ship guest chef stint on the new Queen Mary. We found many acquaintances and "life" history in common.

Scott Houghton, Ortanique's corporate chef, a native of Baton Rouge says "In Louisiana, food is a large part of the culture. There is so much care and preparation put into everything. From a simple sandwich to a gourmet meal, only the highest quality ingredients are used." Houghton is overseeing the kitchens and menus at all three existing Ortanique locations, as well as the upcoming CinDel projects; Ortanique in Cancun, Mexico, CoPRA in Baltimore and Bogwalk in Destin, Florida.

Washington DC's head Chef Matias Lagos continues with Chef/owner Cindy Hutson's creative food styling adding his own multi national flair. The kitchen turns out extravagantly delightful meals for a sophisticated international crowd of area residents and visiting diners.

Our dinner featured an appetizer with thin slices of Kobe beef that melted in my mouth, a yellow Finn potato roasted in truffle oil and nestled in a small depression: a quail's egg. It was so wonderful I've eaten at least a 100 meals since and still go on and on about it.

Crispy fish was a favorite entrée at our table and I had a luscious West Indian-style bouillabaisse —fresh seafood and rice in a rich, curried coconut broth. The very unique papaya salad created by Cindy was similar to a favorite I had during her visit at Round Hill in Jamaica. For dessert I chose the outstanding rum cake but was I sorry to have passed up the mango pudding that Delius devoured without offering a single taste to the rest of us. Next time I'll just eat desserts!

Available Sundays and during the day on Saturday for full house private events, this is the place to have your best meetings, dream reception or total wedding festivities. An elegant, warm and most romantic setting, draped with the colors of a golden sunset, loads of rich mahogany wood and hand painted tropical motifs The 8' x 10' stage has professional lighting and sound, the 12' x 12' Projection Screen can be seen from all locations - the most tasteful large video screen I've ever seen. Run childhood films or favorites of the bride and groom, for me it would be ancient cowboy movies. There is also a built in hard wood dance floor in the center of the main dining room which seats 100 guests or 70 if the dance floor is open. Ortanique can accommodate up to 400 people standing or 170 seated at maximum capacity. Smaller private rooms are also available.

I felt like I should have been wearing a dark floppy hat with veil, gloves and massive fox fur to fit the dramatic flavor of luxury dining here.

Promoted as Cuisine of the Sun, the menu blends an eclectic fusion of Nuevo Latino, New World Caribbean, Carib-Asian or Pan-Asian, with the flavors melding into surprising tasty treasures. You can have just a bite in the second floor Oasis Lounge, a full course tasting menu paired with wines in the main dining room or a special dinner in one of the private areas. Happy Hour specials are weeknights from 4:30-7pm.

Ortanique is near Metro Center, the Grand Hyatt & Marriott Metro Center as well as the new Washington Convention Center. The facility is ADA compliant.

Valet parking is offered at $8.00 per car. Nearby garages & on street parking are also available.

Everyone tells me they love Ortanique in Washington, DC. I'm anxious to try the new CoPRA in Baltimore and work my way through the rest. Did you know an Ortanique is unique to Jamaica and a cross between a tangerine and an orange? Its common name is derived from the words orange, tangerine and unique.

Ortanique
730 11th St. NW - Washington, DC 20001
Ph: 202.393.0975 - Fax: 202.393.1390
Website: www.ortaniqueontheweb.com

Round Hill
PO Box 64, Montego Bay, Jamaica, West Indies
Reservations & Information: 1(800) 972-2159
Tel (876) 956-7050, Fax (876)956-7505
www.roundhilljamaica.com

On another note:

A real thrill for me was appearing at the Girl Scout Career Day at one of Alexandria's fine schools along with many other woman professionals including a pilot, state department official, a veterinarian, nurses and my table mate a genuine Rocket Scientist!

Recent travels:

We did a whirlwind four days in Asheville NC, one day in Greenville, SC, two brief trips to NYC, back to the Caribbean and St. Kitts plus checking out the Ghosts in Old Towne Alexandria, VA and now the beautiful Radisson Seven Seas Navigator to Bermuda – all to be covered (as I recover!) here in a few weeks.

Apparently flying twelve segments and four trains in less than thirty days with a temperature range of about 50 degrees including sun, rain and wind didn't quite agree with my system this time around. It was either the worst flu ever or perhaps even pneumonia and a strange bug or two thrown in for good measure.

With all that constant travel I know to keep washing one's hands, using antibacterial wipes or soap and drinking lots of water but apparently it wasn't quite enough. Six weeks out of commission! I want to thank everyone that called, e mailed, helped me out, rescheduled appearances and so much more.

Media coverage:

In addition to our travel features for WUSATV9 the CBS affiliate in Washington DC we're now on Travel World Radio based in Montreal and broadcast all over North America with live reports from various points around the globe. When I learn a few more high-tech tricks perhaps we'll post those radio reports on the website too.

Editorial:

After the senseless bombings in Madrid and continuing violence in other areas of the middle east and Africa with vows on all sides for more to come, we can't pretend that some people aren't more afraid to travel – even in their own cities. This world is too small for war, and the conflicts affect us all directly or indirectly.

It's hard if not impossible to find an industry or business that isn't partially supported in some manner by travel and tourism. The world discovered that after September 11th and many have never recovered. It seems no countries government is unscathed by scandal and greed including the U.S. What an unfortunate legacy.

I'm sorry about the Iraqi prisoner photos but feel that this behavior committed by a few misguided and untrained young military pale in the light of our and other countries soldiers captured and held in every war. Any POW can tell you that they would have traded these "tortures" for the years of horror practiced on them for which many did not survive.

As a former tabloid staffer, I question the legitimacy of this entire incident – why would "I" a 21 year old female pose in this manner – grinning ear to ear. It was remindful of what we used to call "keg party& behavior.

Before succumbing to this flu bug, this was a very busy time. I think that travel offers the ultimate procrastination and have probably said that in the past, as I abandon stacks of filing, unopened mail and other projects, instead racing to the airport or train station. Perhaps I just like to continually subject myself to the gross and rude behavior of airport security people.

Apparently our intrepid Homeland "Insecurity" located some suspicious woman wearing a Maxwell Smart under-wire bra loaded with explosives or they have been so desperate to hire anyone that deviates now win these security jobs. A huge scowling uniformed female told me she was going to manipulate my "chest" with her "wand" looking for my bra under-wires! In front of the rest of the world? I don't think so anymore than I'm going to walk on some filthy floor without shoes or socks. The supervisor told me it was unnecessary for the women to touch you and that the wand was effective from one inch away I asked him if they were allowed to actually touch every part of his – a mans - body and he wouldn't answer that. Returning from Cleveland a few weeks later, I had the same problem although this woman wasn't steady enough on her feet to keep the wand from touching anything. She focused on my jewelry and like most of them totally bypassed the lengthy metal parts in my leg.

When they ripped apart my bags coming back into the states from Canada, I said what if something breaks in transit now that you've displaced my protective packing system. "Take it up with the airline" was that smart alecks answer. We've taken people who couldn't figure out how to open a window and given them positions of authority to wield power in whatever perverse way they care to on that particular day. I think one could smuggle in an entire cow in their luggage at some airports. They are so distracted by ½-inch manicure scissors that the big stuff runs on by. The whole program is shameful in its neglect to train and hire effective law and security enforcement persons. Hundreds perhaps thousands of lapses can easily be pointed out. Don't accept rude behavior from people whose salaries are being paid by your taxes with the belief that it is ok because they are going to protect you.

Look at Israel, millions of US dollars along with our best and most lethal arms are provided them, tanks, rockets, planes and they bomb entire cities. Yet the people of Palestine have not given up and continue to wage a small but effective defense. We wouldn't want to see prison photos from this entanglement.

Well I'm happy to say we're back on the road again and look forward to reporting all sorts of wonderful destinations for you to check out.

Enjoy life every day!

Mary E. Gallagher

mary@gallagherstravels.com

Gallagher's Travels

Letter from the Editor

June 2004

Pick a Destination

Features

Breaking News

HELPING THE HUNGRY

Contributing Journalists

CURRENT MOON