Gallagher's Travels: Home

Letter from the Editor

July 2004

Dear Friends,

What a great life we all get to lead through travel and for me the time I have left to take an activist part in a variety of causes.

Which reminds me, if you belong to AARP cancel your membership. Those fools supported the prescription drug card and its legislation which is an absolute sham lining the pockets of drug companies, their lobbyists and the health insurers and perhaps those at AARP. Of course now that the world knows the bad news, AARP spokespersons are saying that the drug companies are pulling fast ones. Don’t kid yourself they knew full well what was going on and perpetrated this fraud on the most vulnerable of our population the disabled and elderly people of American with full complicity. Cancel your membership today or just send the money off to the United Way at least we already knew what greedy con artists they are.

Now what’s new and fun in the travel world where we can go to exotic and wonderful places and forget all this dreary day by day stuff. After all what are holidays and time off for?

Recently Arnold Berke, a contributing journalist for Gallagher’s Travels, award winning author and senior editor at Preservation Magazine, and I spent a long weekend in beautiful Asheville, North Carolina, a favorite destination starting with folks like the really rich George Vanderbilt.

My previous Asheville experience consisted of about six hours for a fast downtown walking tour and drive around. This was Arnolds first visit.

We started by flying into Greenville, South Carolina, picking up a car and driving the 70 or so miles to Asheville and the Biltmore estate, our base for the first few days.

The Biltmore Estate

George Vanderbilt’s vision more than a century ago, created a larger-than-life 125,000 acre country retreat (8,000 acres today) in North Carolina's Blue Ridge Mountains. Its centerpiece, Biltmore House, by architect Richard Morris Hunt features four of the most fascinating acres at Biltmore Estate all under one roof. America's largest home boasts 250 rooms, 65 fireplaces, an indoor pool, bowling alley, priceless art and antiques. We did an extensive tour of the house including kitchen and laundry areas.

Today, Biltmore Estate continues to have guests who can enjoy the grandeur of Vanderbilt's collection of fine art and antiques. It is here that this country’s father of landscape architecture, Frederick Law Olmsted, at 66, designed his last and largest project nearly a century ago.

In keeping with Vanderbilt’s vision of a working estate, Olmsted laid out plans for a large farm, impressive planned woodlands, fields, and gardens all enhanced with Olmsted’s naturalistic style. Included in the plans were several formal gardens, a shrub garden or ramble, pools, a lagoon and an elaborately designed three-mile approach road which while driving I thought "how nature laid this particular landscape out so magnificently" then realized it is the best of Olmsted’s style.

The estate provides local rhododendron, mountain laurel, deciduous azalea, hemlock and pine and Olmstead added the rare and exotic creating a unique horticultural setting.

After George Vanderbilt’s early death in 1914, a large portion of the original estate was obtained by the U.S. government, forming the nucleus for Pisgah National Forest. Because Vanderbilt, along with German forester Dr. Carl A. Schenck, established the Biltmore School of Forestry here in America—this seems a fitting legacy to the man behind Biltmore Estate and a protected treasure for us all to enjoy.

Today, Biltmore Estate’s forests, grounds and gardens continue to reflect Olmsted’s plans from nearly a century ago. Estate staff manage approximately 5,000 acres of forest and woodland as well as maintaining the estate grounds and greenhouses. Their jobs include pruning some 80 varieties of roses in the rose garden, planting 50,000 tulip bulbs in the English Walled Garden each year, raising and planting 20,000 bedding plants annually, and growing more than 1,000 poinsettias which decorate Biltmore House every Christmas.

In addition to routine gardening and grounds keeping, garden staff are also heavily involved in landscaping restoration projects, implemented in an effort to maintain the integrity and intent of Olmsted’s original plans for Biltmore.

I could have spent days with Bill Alexander, the Biltmore Estate Landscape Curator, whose knowledge and scope of experience at the property was unending. "George Washington Vanderbilt, like many of his peers, was fascinated with cutting edge technologies and innovations. I believe he would have been excited by all the research, work and sheer effort we have put into updating—and preserving—this historic building," said Alexander regarding the Conservatory, one of his many projects.

Another long-term Biltmore employee, Floral Supervisor, Cathy Barnhardt oversees the stunning day-to-day decorations inside Biltmore House and across the estate. Barnhardt has become a recognized expert in turn-of-the-century floral arranging and decorating. Decorations for popular special events, such as Christmas and Festival of Flowers, also fall under her supervision. I asked her about horror stories of which she had a few but years of experience have given her many ways to "save the day".

The Inn at Biltmore, is an on site luxury hotel built in a style compatible with the main house. The large guest rooms are very complete with many featuring long rolling countryside views. There is a pleasant quiet atmosphere, excellent service from the entire staff, fine dining using produce and beef grown on the property, large open public spaces and a convenient shuttle bus circles the various sites so you can park your car and leave it. The highways coming into town are very well marked for the Biltmore and other area attractions. It isn’t too hard to get around and follow your interests.

I believe North Carolina was one of the first states to plant massive flower scapes in the medians of their highways and marveled at mile after mile of glorious color and blooms.

If you’re staying at the Inn it could easily take a week to do everything. You can enjoy a good book and glass of wine in the library, splash in the round outdoor pool and hot tub, or relax over afternoon tea. Outside activities include hiking with or without a naturalist guide, guided horseback trail rides depart daily, practice your off-road driving skills at the Land Rover Experience Driving School, led by experienced instructors, offering lessons that cover the basics of expedition-style driving and are customized to fit your skill and comfort level or golf at a nearby course and of course visit the two lobby gift shops.

Carriage rides follow different routes each season to showcase the best natural surroundings. During our visit a bride and groom arrived by horse drawn carriage. For Bike touring bring your own bike or rent one of theirs and follow the paved path or more challenging trails. Paddle down the gentle French Broad River with its magnificent views of Biltmore House's west façade. Choose from a guided trip on a raft or simply kayak.

I liked the greenhouse and garden shops. Although our visit was in early spring and it was unseasonably cold – like 40 degrees below the average! We still forged on. This is a great destination for multigenerational families. Everyone except perhaps the smaller children will enjoy the house, the recently opened Barns (see Arnolds article) had exhibits and the types of demonstrations everyone enjoys. I thought the blacksmiths were the highlight of that day.

The winery tour was informative and a lot of people purchased wine. At the Biltmore Estate Winery, tradition meets state-of-the-art technology under the direction of French winemaker Bernard Delille. Vineyards on the estate's west side grow several varieties of vinifera grapes while the estate's former dairy complex now houses the winery. Additional grapes are imported from Napa Valley and blended in with the estates producing 75,000 cases of wine each year in about 15 varieties. Biltmore wines have received awards in national and international competitions.

Probably the single most significant aspect that I enjoyed about the Biltmore estates was the people that worked there. Not one was rude, every single person seemed to know more than was required about their job, the facility and whatever else you needed to know. Over and over they took extra time to tell about the area they worked in or their favorite view or feature.

There are many dining options on the grounds and everything we tested was great.

Adult tickets start at $39 per day but if I lived in the area the Twelve–Month Premium Pass at $79 seems like the best deal – even a discount at a Ford Dealership!

Biltmore Estate information, call 800-624-1575 or 828-225-1333.
Inn on Biltmore Estate reservations, call 800-624-1575 or 828-225-1600.
Biltmore Estate, 1 Approach Road, Asheville, N.C. 28803.
www.biltmore.com

We ventured out first to the Biltmore Village, a historic few block area of shops and restaurants. Built in the late 1890's as a classic planned community directly across from the entrance to the Estate. Here we discovered two places that during my years of travel truly standout. Number one was the restaurant Razaz.

Restaurant Razaz

One of the best restaurants I have dined in during this lifetime – not real expensive, not too weird just outstanding innovative Mediterranean style cooking such as seafood risotto, tuna nicoise, lamb and couscous and many more. Chef Owner Reza, would get rave reviews in any part of the world, a virtual slave to his business and creative cooking while we get the benefits. Absolutely outstanding service. Extensive wine list and a full bar. Lunch Monday-Saturday 11:30 to 3:00. Dinner Monday-Thursday 5:30 to 9:30 and Saturday 5:30 to 10:30.

Rezaz Mediterranean Cuisine
32 Hendersonville Road, Asheville NC 28803
828-277-1510

Bellagio

Then to my second most amazing place of all time in a close tie with Harricana in Montreal. This unique "art to wear" gallery features a complete line of exquisite one of a kind handcrafted clothing and jewelry. This is the one retail store I want you to see in Asheville.

Owned by John Cram, the gallery is just steps from it's sister store, New Morning Gallery, a nationally recognized craft gallery. John's fine art gallery, Blue Spiral 1, is downtown and features changing exhibitions of Southeastern artists and craftspeople.

If you are into clothing, jewelry, furniture or accessories – one of a kind, artist created, this is the place for you. My gosh you’ll hit overload after the first room and it is just a teaser. Have a big credit line on your plastic, this level of style and originality doesn’t come cheap. But even if you have everything or live on a beer budget stop for ideas and an appreciation of what individuals are creating in the world of wearable art. Leave the kids outside.

Bellagio
5 Biltmore Plaza, Asheville, NC 28803
(828) 277-8100
www.bellagioarttowear.com

Then a block away try not to be too astonished by the most lavish McDonalds one has ever seen. In some cities they don’t care who you are you’ll still conform to local values and zoning codes. Apparently Asheville is one of those great places. Arlington, Virginia is not. Our latest Cheesecake Factory looks like an overblown tin carnival fun house. Hopefully the nearby retailers, condominiums and Harry’s Tap Room have blackout drapes.

Asheville is a breakfast town too. Lots of nifty – everyone has a favorite – breakfast places.

Grove Park Inn

Next we had one night to stay at the Historic Hotels of America, the Grove Park Inn. Me, Ms. Sophisticate gasped when we rounded the bend of a residential area and gazed down at this incredible and really distinctive granite boulder construction with acres of red clay tile roof, surrounded by pines, overlooking the world like we were in the mountains of Colorado.

Opened in 1913, the Grove Park Inn has hosted many prominent figures including Thomas Edison, Will Rogers, Henry Ford and F. Scott Fitzgerald, as well as eight U.S. presidents and of course recently Arnold Berke and Mary Gallagher. The inn is the essence of the Arts and Crafts movement, its interiors filled with Roycroft furnishings and fixtures. Some of which erroneously were sold off for a few dollars not too many years ago.

Undergoing major improvements and renovations at the end of the twentieth century, the Main Inn roof was retiled, the Sports Complex expanded, guest rooms renovated and a 40,000-square-foot spa was added.

Is this property popular? Well just drive up in front with Attila and his army to experience the efficient and organized staff that operate better than a landing of your commercial airplane at any airport. The lobby reminded me of a world series ticket holders waiting room. Gazillions of people milling about, checking in, checking out, watching TV, meeting friends, enjoying the view – everywhere there are great views, having a drink at the bar or just relaxing in a comfy chair.

Today with 510 rooms, including 12 suites, a newly restored Donald Ross golf course, indoor and outdoor tennis and swimming, and Children's Programs plus complete in-house convention services this is a very popular meetings destination.

We had bland but "ok" rooms in the new section, rode the famous elevator inside the fireplace and I really enjoyed a mega spa treatment titled "Fire, Ice and Stones".

This treatment completely re-balances all the senses. You’ll feel like you’ve spent an entire day at the Spa – well it was several hours and I didn’t even get to sitting around the pool or steam rooms. It started with a full body exfoliation (apparently I had been growing mold and leaves), buttermilk and honey whirlpool bath, body wraps and a waterfall massage with a customized Vichy shower. My technician was really good and must have used fifty pounds of herbs, creams, oils, buttermilk and some warm stones in an effort to restore and revive me.

Interestingly I had learned at the Biltmore than buttermilk is used to "age" or etch things like fieldstone. With that thought in mind, I lay in the buttermilk bath and determined it was probably etching away the old and leaving the new.

In the novel looking Grotto area that houses this quite huge spa facility you may get lost and it will take days to find your way out but there isn’t a service they don’t or can’t provide so what better place to spend life wandering? The individual treatment rooms are incredibly equipped for every indulgence. By the time it was all over my technician was more soaked then myself.

I dragged my now jello like self to the spectacular Chops dining room for further revitalization with their prized fine prime aged beef. The spectacular steaks, rustic setting, specialty appetizers were all wonderful – following in the Asheville tradition of fine dining.

Other eating venues here include Horizons; buffet and a la carte, The Blue Ridge Dining Room, Spa Café, Magnolia for breakfast and in-room dining service and the Great Hall Bar.

Need a getaway for your office staff or company meetings? This is a wonderful property that I would recommend highly for that purpose or housing your entire wedding - guests and bridal party.

Events are always going on with perhaps one of the "sweetest" being the National Gingerbread House Competition. A field of nine judges deliberated for almost three hours to determine the winners among three categories: Adult, Teen 13-17 and Youth 12 and under in ‘03. As always, judging the creative creations is difficult and they get more creative and complicated each year. The Grand Prize winner receives $1,000, plus a Romance Package including two nights accommodations, dinner, daily breakfast, champagne and floral arrangement.

All of the gingerbread houses will remain on display throughout the holidays. Displayed on the 7th floor of the Vanderbilt Atrium from Nov. 12-Jan. 5, 2004. The display is open to the public.

It’s not too late for you to get started for this year’s competition. People bring their "houses" from all over the US. The 12th annual event is set for Monday, November 8, 2004.

The Grove Park Inn Resort & Spa
290 Macon Avenue
Asheville, NC 28804-3799
Phone: (828) 252-2711
Fax: (828) 253-7053
www.groveparkinn.com

Richmond Hill

Our last evening in Asheville was another stop in this weekend of history at the grand Victorian mansion known as Richmond Hill. Built in 1889 as a private residence it was one of the most elegant and innovative structures of its time. It had running water, ten master fireplaces, a communications system, and a pulley-operated elevator for transporting baggage from one floor to the next.

Then after 95 years of political and social acclaim, the Richmond Hill Mansion faced demolition when the heirs sold it. The Preservation Society saved the house, and it was moved 600 feet to its new location and finally purchased by the present owners, Dr. and Mrs. Michel. Following substantial historical research and a $3 million restoration, the Mansion reopened as an inn in 1989. Guest rooms are scattered around the property allowing one to feel almost like the only guest. Some rooms and suites are located on the second and third floors of the main house. On the first floor, is the spectacular Gabrielle's restaurant, the Oak Hall, the Library, the Ballroom, and the Drawing Room.

Arriving towards the end of tea time, I was famished and experiencing one of my famous or perhaps infamous meltdowns that turn me into Dracula, Godzilla and several other monsters simultaneously. After knocking everyone to the floor I stuffed a few tea sandwiches and cookies in and as the low blood sugar rages subsided I mellowed. Actually the staff couldn’t keep up with the hungry hordes that flocked to the table besides myself. As they replenished the stock it was like locusts on a Kansas prairie.

After a brief rest and for me time at the computer planning the next day, we arrived at Gabrielle’s for dinner on the enclosed sunporch overlooking the setting sun across the verdant green hills. Richmond Hill is high enough to afford sweeping views of the countryside. Their wide outdoor porches offer comfortable rockers for reading or just contemplating the world and ones life.

One can partake of pre dinner cocktails in the wonderful library or Oak hall. Just like a guest on some historic sepia toned PBS series set in a fine manor home.

Every meal at the Inn is an extraordinary dining experience. Gabrielle's is recipient of the prestigious AAA Four Diamond Award for the tenth consecutive year and the domain of one of this country's most inventive chefs, Michelle Kelley. She creates two menus, the a la carte showcases seasonal specialties and the five-course Grande Menu changes daily to take advantage of the freshest and finest ingredients available.

What can I say about the dinner? It was wonderful – every dish we adored, the staff we adored, the live piano music with Christopher Leonard presented his amazing talent and he obliged any request. Even my choice of real cowboy songs amongst the Rachmaninoff that caused a little soft chorus coming from guests through out the dining rooms singing Happy Trails to You and others. Then I asked for selections from the Beatles Abby Road with the same response. All the diners bonded together – like an ageless secret society. All except Arnold who was too busy being enthralled with each morsel of every course.

Some particular items we enjoyed were the 'Rogue Harbor Farm' Watercress Salad with Spiced Pecans, Clemson Blue Cheese and Granny-Smith Apple Vinaigrette, a Macadamia Nut Encrusted Sea Bass with Bok Choy, Edamames and a Spicy Lemon Grass-Coconut Emulsion, the 'Maple Leaf 'Duck Breast with Apple Puree, Sautéed Baby Spinach, Fingerling Potatoes and Sour Cherry Compote.

Gabrielle's is open for dinner from 6:00-9:30 pm each evening except Tuesdays. You will experience service equal to the best in the world.

We were leaving very early in the morning and not going to be able to eat breakfast, upon finishing our dinner the wait staff packed up treats of cheese, bread, butter, fruit and sweets in nice takeaway packages with plastic flatware and napkins. It was the most astonishing touch of thoughtfulness. Perhaps living away from the large urban areas helps breed this caring type of behavior towards guests and strangers.

It is very important to make your reservations early for dinner or tea. They are often fully reserved weeks in advance.

Richmond Hill is such a picturesque property, the perfect destination for a wedding and honeymoon. The Ballroom inside the 1889 Mansion seats 50, outside the Parterre Garden with waterfall seats 50.

The five Croquet Cottages were added in 1990. Each cottage has a front porch overlooking the croquet courtyard. I had my own adorable cottage the "Magnolia" with a queen-size bed, fireplace, refrigerator, coffee maker, front porch with rocking chairs, and separate tub and shower. Meanwhile Arnold was pampered in a large marvelous room with sitting area on the second floor of the main house.

This is an intimate property that you will find secluded, quiet, genteel and so restful I could have stayed for a month. Make that should have stayed for a month! If you cannot stay be sure an enjoy dinner one evening and request a window table on the porch with your reservation.

Richmond Hill Inn
87 Richmond Hill Drive
Asheville, NC 28806
Phone: (828) 252-7313
Toll: (800) 545-9238
Fax: (828) 252-8726
www.richmondhill.com
www.romanticasheville.com

Shopping downtown is a bit funky, lots of antique shops, very high quality imports from Ireland, the famous and recently restored Grove Arcade Public Market, a large Mast General Store of which there are apparently fans but I thought rather expensive – even the candy seemed overpriced.

Asheville is a great destination – always good for a three day visit – perhaps a long weekend. Be sure and see Arnolds stories here on the Barn at the Biltmore and the recently renovated Thomas Wolfe house.

Asheville Visitors Information 800-280-0005
www.exploreasheville.com

Copra

Back home for a few days, I did make it up to Baltimore in for the opening of Delius Shirley and Cindy Hutson’s newest venture in our area Copra. Both dear friends and probably one of our nations most creative restaurateurs, they had flown in for the occasion and a jumping crowd packed both levels at this chic Charles Street location.

Deciding to make this an experimental travel urban adventure "extravaganza," I drove from home three miles to the Braddock station in Alexandria, proceeded by metro to Union station, took Amtrak to Baltimore Penn Station and then boarded a city bus to within two blocks of the restaurant at Charles and Saratoga. Arriving exactly two hours door to door. Not bad for 60-70 mile trip through the prime 5-7 pm rush hour. If you think you know bad traffic come visit me here for a few days.

A number of years back I walked Charles Street from the Walters Art Gallery to the waterfront – it was a long trip but all down hill! Let me tell you this city is changing fast and Charles St. is absolutely great. I’m anxious to go back shop, sightsee and eat my way again.

Copra is a fun place with the brick wall and wood style of a Cheers neighborhood establishment adding an urban edge for the sophisticate. Scott Houghton, Corporate executive chef came in to assist Copra Chef De Cuisine Elijah Alenier and everyone’s favorite General Manager - Joe Dunn. For the nights crush and we feasted on some of Cindy’s specialties as well as treats devised by Scott and Elijah. Generally the menu runs to good home cooking with a few Caribbean and other twists.

Hutson and Shirley with their CinDel Restaurant corporation are an innovative creative think tank for young chefs and we the eating public get to enjoy that.

Copra
313 N. Charles St.
Baltimore, MD 21202
410-727-6080
www.cindel-group.com

St. Kitts, Miami and Minneapolis/St. Paul coming up soon. Plus we did a fantastic cruise on the Radisson Seven Seas Navigator out of New York that allowed me a wow one night stay at the Mark Hotel and a lifetime dream dining event at Georges Briguet’s La Perigord Restaurant. Not much time to visit and gawk in the city but another great meal at the Bull and Bear in the Waldorf. You know I gave up on cruises but this was a truly wonderful experience and I’d go with Radisson again in an instant. But only after I lose the weight from those 24 hours in NYC and this cruise.

After you cancel your AARP membership stop taking off your shoes and walking around in dirty airports. Let them wand you – they are not to touch you - the wand is supposed to be one inch away or they must ask permission to touch any part of you or your clothing. Returning last week, I didn’t take off my watch which is almost the size of Big Ben, kept a ton of jewelry on, plus my shoes and everything else except my cell phone and the change in my pocket. Nothing rang the system including the metal body parts. Now you tell me, can these detectors say "oops that is just a big watch, those are just cheap earrings….." Remember each person is allowed two lighters and four books of matches. I think Homeland Insecurity is our own in-house terrorist organization. Next not being a senator, I may have to read the Patriot Act so blithely passed blatantly removing our rights.

My grateful thanks to our WUSATV viewers in the Washington DC and outlying areas as well as listeners throughout North America on Travel World Radio who take the time to contact me with their wonderful comments and questions. It makes my day when I hear from you.

Biltmore Stable Café Barbecue Sauce
Yield: 1 gallon

Ingredients:

chili powder - 2 ounces
dry mustard - 1/2 cup
gumbo filé - 1/2 Tablespoon
seasoning salt - 1 Tablespoo
ground cumin - 1 1/2 Tablespoons
ground black pepper - 1 Tablespoon
white pepper - 1 Tablespoons
cayenne pepper - 1 teaspoon
Worcestershire sauce - 1/2 cup
chili sauce - 1 gallon
cider vinegar - 1 cup
brown sugar - 1 cup
Butter - 4 ounces
celery, finely chopped - 1/2 stalk
onion, finely chopped - 2 each
green peppers, finely chopped - 2 each
garlic, chopped - 1/2 Tablespoon

Method:

Dice celery, onion and green pepper small.
Sauté vegetables in butter until onions are transparent.
Add all other ingredients, and steep but do not boil. Cook for one hour.

Biltmore House received its first guests in 1895 on Christmas Eve. After six years of construction, this remarkable house with its four acres of floor space had finally been completed. The facts and figures of the estate have amazed guests ever since.