Gallagher's Travels: Letter From the Editor: August 2005

Letter from the Editor

August 2005

Dear Friends,

We have new writers and many exciting fresh tales of travel and tips to pass on in this ever-changing world of adventure and education. A new section with book reviews and we're expanding coverage on upscale and unique cruises and have put up a handy link in the bar at the top of this home page.

Here's quick highlights and photos from some (not even all!) of our stops over the last few wonderful weeks on the road.

Main House at Ten Chimneys

Genesee Depot, Wisconsin. The magical Ten Chimneys summer estate of Alfred Lunt and Lynn Fontanne. An absolute must stop for theater buffs and everyone interested in historical homes. So perfectly preserved, restored and offered to the public by a devoted team lead by Sean Malone, President and Director of Programs. You will thank me for sending you here and it is quite close to Milwaukee. Every building and room is like they just left to go shopping an hour before.

Map of grounds

The gift shop has some wonderful things I haven't seen before and that was a pleasant surprise. Good idea to make pre-reservations for your visit. They are popular now and with national television coverage in the fall it will be busier than ever and deservedly so. www.tenchimneys.org

Fusion Chef Mark Vaccaro, a master at crafting stunning creations that feature a Mediterranean flair and taste wonderful.

Chef Mark Vaccaro, Fusion Fond du Lac

Wait until you see this restaurants décor; inside a historic movie theater in "little ole" downtown Fond du Lac - it looks as good as or better than a Stephen Starr production in Philly and the staff is perfect. www.fusionbymark.com

The question is "how many out of the billions of Jelly Belly candies made do you eat?" I took a tour of the distribution center at Pleasant Valley just a few minutes from Milwaukee and the store is definitely worth the visit. What are the little none conforming shaped beans called? Belly FLOPS of course and they go out the door as fast as the regulars.

Jelly Belly tasting bar

A tasting bar? Here you can check new flavors and mix and match your favorites. Behind the bar is wall covered with photos and information on the history of Jelly Belly and the family that started and still owns the company. They even have a recipe booklet on how to combine your flavors for other "flavors"!

A nice little riding tour is available although no candy is made at this facility. California and Illinois have factories also available for tours. The little kids were going wild in the store just loving everything. www.jellybelly.com

Alert to Frank Lloyd Wright fans, yes, Taliesin is as wonderful as you were hoping. Beautiful 600 plus acres in the greenest of Wisconsin rolling hills. Many tours available. Spend all day or just a few hours.

Taliesin, Spring Green

If you have even a vague interest in architecture and design this is a place to see. And a community of people live here in summers but with no heat in any buildings they wisely move to Taliesin west for the winter. Best to make a pre-visit reservation they are quite busy. www.taliesinpreservation.org

Milwaukee dining includes the very hot and unique Roots Restaurant overlooking the city. Very popular so make a reservation for sure, particularly if you want a window view.

Roots Restaurant

Our dinners were quite delicious made with very fresh ingredients, one of Roots signature statements. www.rootsmilwaukee.com

Circus World in Baraboo, Wisconsin is a place almost everyone has heard of but it is even better than you can imagine. Plan a full day and if you don't get all the way through no worries, come back the next day on your same ticket. Now that is accommodating the customers. Circus shows, animals, historic circus wagons and they'd like to collect old Wild West items if you have something lying around in your garage!

Circus Tiger

The historic wagon restoration process is fascinating as are all the exhibits. I was a bit ahead of the season and missed the big circus parade through Baraboo that draws thousands of people. This year's parade featured 35 antique circus wagons, 15 bands, 1200 costumed participants, 350 equines and nearly two-dozen exotic animals. Also returning after a few years absence was the Pawnee Bill Bandwagon featuring a 10-horse pyramid hitch along with the ever impressive 13-tandem hitch on the Bostock & Wombwell Menagerie Band Carriage. Someday (hopefully) they'll let me ride the circus train to Toronto or some other wonderful city.

Circus Music CD

Circus World is not only a fun place for kids with acres to run around on but also very interesting to adults. It's a well cared for site, the animals probably eat better than you and I and the circus acts in the big tent were outstanding talent.

Elephant Poster

Check the map of the grounds on their website. You'll be pleasantly surprised at the size. There is also an ongoing restoration of properties in the area and what looked like some interesting antique and other independent shops opening within walking distance. Naturally I was already running an hour behind schedule. www.circusworldmuseum.com

Bowling first came to the fore in taverns like Milwaukee's Holler House, which has had lanes since 1908. Holler Bar and Bowling is reportedly the oldest bowling alley in the nation! There are a lot of old bowling alleys in Wisconsin and what will amaze you is they consist of only one or two alleys in the basement of a tavern that is actually the front of the tavern owners house!

Holler House Bowl, Milwaukee

Holler House even found some old wooden balls during a remodeling. A wonderful one family institution and what a place to rent for your 40th birthday party!

Holler House
2042 West Lincoln Avenue
Milwaukee, WI 53215
414.647.9284

The highly rated Emerson Inn and Spa in upstate New York has everything.

Emerson Inn Lobby

Emerson Inn Spa Pool

Wonderful dining, the most serene and beautiful spa, huge comfortable rooms, large upscale shopping area and enjoy the show with the worlds largest kaleidoscope! www.emersonplace.com

Another piece of history in the northern reaches of New York state is the Sagamore Resort on Lake George. At every turn you'll find another water or woods view. The dining rooms are either opulent gorgeous or Northwood's design - the rustic hanging canoe and native blanket style theme. A huge buffet breakfast every day blew our diet resolve!

Sagamore

Whether it's your wedding, a family get together or just a couples or friends getaway, this is the place. www.sagamoreresort.com

My favorite museum in Washington DC is the Sackler and their impressive current exhibit "Caravan Kingdoms: Yemen and the ancient incense trade" captivates you. Alabaster items in almost perfect condition from 3 BC? I'm not half that old and already disintegrating!

Yemen Alabaster

And if you thought modern and art deco designs from 1910 are original wait until you see these ancient treasures. Few museums in the world can compare with the Sackler's exhibit design team who time and time again make every show a staging masterpiece. Forget the Air and Space, leave the crowds and see some of the greatest work of all time. Every school child in America should be taken on a tour here at least once a year and their programs for children are outstanding according to one of my rent-a-kids. www.sackler.org

The Baltimore Visitors Bureau is offering a variety of low cost walking tours out of their new center located at the west end of the inner harbor. Although I spend a lot of time in Baltimore and thought I knew this particular area well - we walked for several hours in a somewhat circuitous route as far as the beginnings of Little Italy and the new Reginald F. Lewis Museum of Maryland African American History and Culture.

I learned a lot from, Alan, my knowledgeable guide. The best part is he actually knew facts not just recently memorized in a class or from some other guide book. This was not an "eyes glazed over" recitation.

Alan, the Baltimore Guide

Be prepared to pay New York City prices to park anywhere in the inner harbor area and be sure to stay for the day - it is cheaper! Do not park in the always almost empty lot next to the new visitor's center unless you also plan to stay for the day. Every time I visit Baltimore I feel duped that the city government allows the parking lot and garage owners to victimize tourists and everyone else throughout the city. If you're lucky you'll find a lot for only $18 for three minutes...not really but that will be the cheapest rate for four hours. There is an underground metro but it isn't advertised widely and in truth I've never used it. The city buses from Penn station are efficient if you want to train into the city and bus down to the inner harbor or any other destination.

For families, I've been told it's a better deal to buy a season family pass to the National Aquarium even if you never go again. $18 per person over the age of 11 is serious money. Their website charges another fee for pre-ordering tickets a unique concept when airlines give you bonus miles and charge extra for non internet tickets. www.baltimore.org

Pastries in Little Italy

Still in Baltimore, I soothed my aching feet with a wonderful lunch on the deck at the James Joyce Pub. The manager really was from Ireland, a good sign and the pub is at the far eastern end of the harbor away from the crowds.

James Joyce Pub

My lunch special of fresh scallops was excellent and the service impeccable. None of that dreaded "Hey guys" greeting. Truly a refreshing and popular spot. www.thejamesjoycepub.com

There's more to come but you'll have to wait a few weeks as home at last there is a bit of catching up to do.

Happy Trails!

Mary E. Gallagher

mary@gallagherstravels.com

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