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Luray Caverns - Again
by
Andrew Der
I realized the other day that
I have expended more effort to experience travel destinations across
oceans and continents than where I call home. Although not fully
understanding this phenomena, I am working to change it with the help of
my children. The simplicity of enriching weekend jaunts with my son and
daughter, who couldn’t care less where they are as long as they are
enjoying themselves with Mom and Dad, fulfills my quest for low
maintenance short travel experiences (see my previous story “Reality
Camping”), I am learning that attractions and activities, near where we
live, are no less rewarding than on any another continent.
These experiences also tend to be profoundly memorable when visiting an attraction from my childhood. It encompassed a time and social strata when out-of-town travel was a luxury and an overnight weekend jaunt was worthy of a Lowell Thomas travelogue yet, in some ways, the experience possessed a simplistic quality overshadowing that of exotic lands. With the high degree of mobility today, I wonder if, years from now, writers will describe nostalgic travel memories of jetting to the Mediterranean with their parents?
Luray Caverns, in the renowned Shenandoah Valley of rural Virginia, recently topped off another itinerary down memory lane. Although easily experienced in a single day and only a couple of hours from Washington, DC, I recommend exploring this childhood retreat in the Blue Ridge of the Appalachian Mountains as a very relaxing weekend overnighter.
The best time to go for scenery is in fall combining the jaunt with the turning leaves but this also attracts a lot of city traffic. Discovered by accident in 1878 and studied by the Smithsonian Institution, this natural marvel was designated a Registered Natural Landmark by the National Park Service and the Department of the Interior and is a staple of East Coast site seeing. Isolated but not far away, the caverns are located in Luray, a small town out of a Norman Rockwell painting. In fact the only thing to do in the area is to see the local attractions.

Rich with scientific oddity and geologic treasures, Luray caverns will fascinate children of all ages. Although I had visited the Caverns as a child in the sixties (quick, do the math), I finally learned this time exactly how they were formed and continue to grow at a rate of one cubic inch per 120
years, plus the differences between the formations, a stalactite is from the ceiling and a stalagmite is from the floor. The guided tour is very efficient and allows little opportunity for monotony.
My favorite parts were the playing of the stalacpipe organ and when all the interior lighting is briefly extinguished. The organ is an amazing example of patient tinkering and ingenuity. A musical piano-like keyboard is wired to electro-magnetically propelled hammers fastened to stalactites of exact pitch so when activated, the necessary note is heard. The inventor, a scientist at the Pentagon, spent untold hours in 1954 locating the formations with the exact pitch by trial and error. Those were the days when people actually had spare time. While still fascinating, the haunting door bell-like notes seemed more rich and amazing during my
childhood visit
Having the tour group stand around while the lights are turned off may seem mundane on the surface, but this experience will profoundly demonstrate the amount of light pollution our eyes are accustomed to in the big city. For many it is the first time they will experience true and total darkness – a very strange and intriguing disruption to the senses. One might compare it to a weightless sensation without the weightlessness.
Be sure to take a sweater or jacket even in the summer the temperature is in the 50s all year round. In fact, the Caverns were leased in 1901 for a sanitarium and by installing a shaft and fan motor into a cavern chamber, which was connected to the house above, it become the first air-conditioned dwelling in America . 
After the tour, let your kids run wild in the attraction’s one-acre ornamental garden maze next door. Mom and Dad might also enjoy this clever challenge of pathways with eight-foot
tall evergreen walls leading to four strategic checkpoints. I had trouble
finding one of them and wound up having a nice exercise experience keeping up with my squealing children as they confronted the dead ends at full running speed. Finish the visit by poking your
head into the antique Car and Carriage Caravan Museum next door. Expecting to walk
through fairly quickly you’ll find yourself pausing more and more wondering about those who rode and owned these impeccably preserved horseless carriages. Some of the memorable highlights include a 1892 Benz still in operating condition, a Conestoga Wagon, a 1908 Baker Electric, a 1913 Stanley Steamer, Rudolph Valentino's 1925 Rolls Royce, Model Ts, motorcycles, farm machinery and gangster getaway cars. As a gear head, I not only appreciated this virtual time machine but also found the machinery as an effective venue for American history appreciation.
The next day, explore the Shenandoah’s famous Skyline Drive or the George Washington National Forest on the way home. This scenic highway, nine miles from Luray and part of the U. S. Park system, rides the crest of the Blue Ridge Mountains for 105 miles interspersed with overlooks, hiking trails and the largest concentration of North American black bear. If the fall crowds are inhibiting, investigate the George Washington National Forest - the largest publicly owned land base for recreation in the eastern United States. With over 100 developed recreational sites, overlooks, streams and pristine woodlands, your remaining hours will seem all too short. Do not be surprised if, on your low maintenance drive home, you are already planning your next weekend adventure.
CONTACTS
Luray Caverns
970 U.S. Hwy. 211 West, PO Box 748
Luray, Virginia 22835 (540) 743-6551
The excellent web site has all you need to know about hours of operation, entrance fees, history, hotels, area attractions, car museum and the maze. Don’t forget to print out the discount coupons and use the reader friendly location map. For those of you so inclined, check out the page for Caverns Country Club Resort which offers outstanding golf course packages.
Accommodations
Luray Caverns Motel East, (540) 743-4531
Luray Caverns Motel West, (540) 743-4536
These motels offer cozy, clean and economical family accommodations within walking distance. Don’t forget the complimentary continental breakfast next morning in the lobby.
Yogi Bear’s Jellystone Park Camp Resort
Highway 211 East, Luray, VA 22835
Phone (540) 743 - 4002
Toll Free (800) 420 - 6679
The most fun kids can have camping while in the area - a weekend vacation unto itself.
Restaurants
In addition to the Luray Caverns snack bar, numerous eating establishments, from fast food to family restaurants, are available in Luray, Shenandoah National Park as well as on the way there and back.
Shenandoah National Park and Skyline Drive: www.shenandoah.areaparks.com
George Washington National Forest: www.southernregion.fs.fed.us/gwj/
Jellystone Campground: www.campluray.com
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