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Cozumel, Mexico
Story and Photos by Mary Gallagher
How lucky can one be to leave behind winters dreary days and land in Cozumel for a week or two? On second
thought, any getaway to this tropical paradise would be welcome 365 days a year. We had a mild snap at home
but the change of scene and all that greenery and blue water was what the doctor ordered.
Just 12 miles off the tip of the Yucatan Peninsula and covering 189 square miles, Cozumel's leeward side
features white sandy beaches, calm water and a spectacular reef system. On the Caribbean (windward) side
is a powerful surf and rocky outcroppings that hide coves and calm bays. Along with its variety of beaches,
the Island is made up of palm groves, scrubby jungle and a few low hills. Less than 4% of the Island is developed
and the primarily dirt roads are not highly maintained, so proceed with great caution, especially after a rain.
Mopeds and motorcycles are very popular but also extremely dangerous because of heavy traffic, potholes and hidden
stop signs. Having said that, it's worth renting a vehicle to explore the island, which according to some has more
sights than either Cancún or Isla Mujeres. Note: Keep your gas tank full! Once away from San Miguel we never saw
another gas station learning later the entire island has two!
Cozumel was the sacred site of the Mayan fertility goddess Ixchel. A center of trade and navigation, the Spanish
used it for a naval base in the late 16th century. Safe harbors, tunnels and catacombs hid Pirate treasure and supplies.
After several times of settlement and abandonment, Jacques Cousteau discovered the incredible reefs and diving opportunities
in 1961 and a new course was set.
Today, because of large pier construction, the main harbor in San Miguel is a major stop on the itinerary of Caribbean
cruise ships. The waterfront promenade is as American as any US mall including a number of chain restaurants. Cruise ships
usually dock at Cozumel on Monday but there is traffic here almost every weekday and the shops can be crowded. Traditionally,
stores are open 9-1 and 5-9, but a number of them, especially those nearest the pier, tend to stay open all day and on weekends,
particularly during high season. Most are closed Sunday morning.
Not to discourage you from purchasing souvenirs, I saw many of the exact same items, on subsequent trips that month, at stores in
San Antonio, Texas and St. Augustine, Florida with little or no price difference. You will receive warnings about buying from street
vendors and the quality of their merchandise can be less than desired. Examine the items you want carefully and if you have time check
a few places. I thought the best shopping especially if your time is limited with reasonable prices and a large selection of native crafts,
silver jewelry and more was "Cinco Soles" on Avenue Rafael Melgar the main waterfront street at 8th.
As in the states don't pay much attention to written or verbal offers of "20% discounts, today only" or "only for cruise-ship passengers".
Americans need not be concerned with the fact that the island is duty free.
 A positive habit I acquired here was constantly drinking bottled water. Although we were told by local officials that the tap water is safe,
our heavy consumption was due the heat and constant breeze dehydrating your body faster than you can imagine. Bottled water was also convenient
to carry.
In addition to the historic and other attractions, Cozumel has an interesting calendar of events that you may want to consider when planning your visit.
February is Carnaval, a weeklong celebration with parades, traditional foods, dancing and musicians from Mexico, Belize and Cuba. The highlight of the
week is the Comparsas Ball with group dance competition.
April features the Rodeo International de Pesca Deportiva an international sport fishing tournament with competitors from all over the world fishing for marlin, tuna, sierra and other game fish.
April also celebrates the Feria del Cadral, the anniversary of the first Catholic mass in Mexico. This event features races and bullfights.
May is the National sport-fishing tournament Torneo Nacional de Pesda Deportiva.
June has the Torneo de Pesca Dia de la Marina this Marine Day fishing tournament one of many is starting to give me the idea that sport fishing is big in these waters!
June also features a religious festival the San Pedro y San Pablo with food and craft shows.
September celebrates the Fiesta de Independencia Nacional - Mexican Independence day and The Fiestas de San Miguel Arcangel honors Cozumel's patron saint, Saint Miguel.
November features the national religious celebration Day of the Dead and the 26.2 mile Cozumel Marathon.
December has the Dia de la Virgen de Guadalupe where groups of runners race around the island in relays to commemorate the Day of the Virgin of Guadalupe.
ATTRACTIONS
*CASTILLO REAL. A Maya site on the eastern coast, near the northern tip of the island, the Royal Castle comprises a lookout tower,
the base of a pyramid, and a temple with two chambers capped by a false arch. The waters here harbor several shipwrecks and it's a
fine spot for snorkeling because there are few visitors to disturb the fish. Near the northern tip of the island.
*PARQUE CHANKANAAB. A 15-minute drive south of San Miguel, Chankanaab ("small sea") is a lovely saltwater lagoon that is now a
national preserve with an archaeological park, botanical garden, dolphin aquarium, and wildlife sanctuary. There are many photo
opportunities here and lots of shade to rest in if the day gets really hot or you're wary of too much sun. Guides lead interesting,
informative tours. At the dolphin aquarium, visitors can swim with fascinating marine mammals. Also on the premises are four dive shops,
two restaurants, three gift shops, a snack stand, and a dressing room with lockers and showers.
They say to come early, as the park fills up fast. It was quite busy when we stopped by around l:00pm but not overwhelming. The swimmers
in our group raved about the clarity and warmth of the water. I could easily see a family spending the day here. We ate lunch at one of the
restaurants and unfortunately the menu sounded more interesting than the actual execution of the very pricey food. If possible bring your own.
It's unfortunate that so many places in the world including the Smithsonian Museums have captive food consumers and the contract food services
were probably previously fired by the airlines. Carretera Sur Km 9, PHONE: no phone. COST: $10, free after 5 PM. Daily 7-6.
*PARQUE PUNTA SUR. This 247-acre preserve, located at the southernmost tip of Cozumel, is home to numerous birds and animals. No cars are allowed.
Visitors must use park transportation (bicycles, small carts, or public buses). Quite efficient and we didn't have much of a wait at any point.
At the southernmost point of the park is the Punta Celerain Faro, a lighthouse with a small but interesting navigational museum. The beaches here
are deserted and wide, and there's great snorkeling offshore. There's a snack bar, a restaurant, an information center, a souvenir shop, and rest
rooms. Be realistic as this is not Disney but a true preserve with the above basic facilities. A round-trip taxi ride from town is $30. Southernmost
point on the coastal road, PHONE: no phone. COST: $10, free after 3 PM. Daily 7-4.
*PUNTA MOLAS FARO. At the northernmost point of Cozumel, the Molas Point Lighthouse is an excellent spot for sunbathing, birding, and camping. The
jagged shoreline and the open sea offer magnificent views, making it well worth the time-consuming and somewhat difficult trip. Be prepared to walk
some of the way. Access is easier by boat, or you may prefer to take the guided tour. Northernmost tip of the island.
*SAN GERVASIO. Standing in a forest, these remarkable ruins are the largest existing Maya and Toltec site on Cozumel. San Gervasio was once the island's
capital and ceremonial center, dedicated to the fertility goddess Ixchel. Plaques clearly identify each of the ruins in Maya, Spanish, and English. We had
an outstanding guide who knew the island history backwards and forwards and his command of the English language was very understandable. This is not a
massively high temple to climb but the Mayan history is fascinating. There is a snack bar and some gift shops at the entrance. Av. Juárez east to San
Gervasio access road; follow road north for 7 km (4½mi). Av. Juárez east to San Gervasio access road. COST: Access to road $1, ruins $3.50. Daily 8-5. Closed Oct.
Hotels
Cozumel has accommodations ranging from five star hotels and all inclusive resorts to value priced villas and bungalows located in the downtown or following the beaches.
There are over 3000 rooms on the island and all adjacent or very close to the Caribbean. Many offer dive packages with prices that can include accommodations, daily breakfast
or all meals, two tank dives, unlimited tanks for shore diving, welcome drink and t shirt. Other incentives can include a discount on massages, round trip transportation to and
from the airport, non-motorized sports, gym and golf. At the Paradisus, where I stayed, two children between the ages of two and twelve can stay free when accompanied by a parent.
Honeymooners are drawn to the Island with its perfect weather and easy flight access from the US. Hotels offer some wonderful packages for the happy couple. Floral arrangements,
sparkling wine and many activities at the all inclusives. Paradisus includes one day car rental, a cheese plate with your champagne, a private dinner for two on the beach , twenty
minute horse back ride and golf at the Paradisus Cozumel Country Club.
My very spacious room at Paradisus had a sitting area with comfortable furniture leading to the deck overlooking the Caribbean. I can stand a lot of heat and prefer to leave the doors
open shutting off the AC in order to enjoy every moment of wave sounds. The hotel was very clean with native tropical trees and flowers covering the spacious grounds with its white
sandy beach just a few feet away.
I thought the Paradisus was quite quiet in spite of the gorgeous but hard surfaced tile floors. The clientele ran the gamut from families to singles to honeymooners. We ate from the
bountiful breakfast buffet each day, loading up on tropical fruits, waffles and custom egg dishes. Sitting outside in the perfect temperature overlooking the water with birds chirping
all around was quite idyllic.
The hotel was conveniently located within a short inexpensive ($3.00) cab ride to the city. Although I didn't have time to partake in any of the hotels programs, they have a good
repeat business and everyone looked like they were having fun.
I also did a quick walk through of the Presidente Inter-Continental Cozumel, an AAA four diamond awarded hotel. The facility commanded a similar Caribbean view and had been recently
remodeled with tropical sherbet colors used in the rooms. They reminded me of that popular boutique look we're frequently seeing. Interesting art, unique color combinations and a
sparseness of furnishings minus the gewgaws is refreshing.
There are two restaurants and a bar that serves snacks and espresso! The Arrecife Restaurant has been awarded a AAA four Diamond several times. A doctors convention was underway and
they were enjoying every aspect of the facility to its fullest including the beachside bar.
We met divers at the airport that lived in Texas and for the last ten years return several times a year to Cozumel for diving. That was the best endorsement I could think of!
Getting Around
Mopeds and motorcycles are very popular but extremely dangerous because of heavy traffic, a sometimes lassiz faire
attitude of other drivers, potholes, and hidden stop signs. We were in a van with a driver and noticed occasional
lapses of reason on the part of car drivers in our journeys around the island.
The rental of mopeds is popular in all the islands. I remember once, a couple coming back to our cruise ship with
many bruises, cuts, scrapes and he had a broken arm as a result of their moped accident. Although Mexican law
requires passengers wear helmets, there wasn't 100% compliance. Mopeds rent for about $25 per day; insurance included.
Bus
Public buses do not operate in the north and south hotel zones, running mainly within the town of San Miguel.
The town is quite walk able or a we've mention cabs are plentiful and inexpensive.
Car
A rental car works and if you're interested in the more secluded beaches and ruins you will need a four-wheel drive.
Remember there are two gas stations on Cozumel.
Rental rates start at $50 a day. Many of the smaller companies carry only standard transmission cars. Familiar names
such as Hertz, Avis, and Alamo are available. Before you rent see what coverage your personal auto-insurance policy
and credit cards already provide.
Regardless of any coverage afforded to you by your credit-card company, you must have Mexican auto-liability insurance.
This is usually sold by car-rental agencies and included in the cost of the car. Be sure that you have been provided
with proof of such insurance; If you drive without it, you're breaking the law.
Taxi
Taxi service is available 24 hours a day, with a 25% surcharge between midnight and 6 AM, at the main office
(Calle 2 Norte, PHONE: 987/2-00-41 or 987/2-02-36) or at the malecón, at the main pier in town. You can also
hail taxis on the street and there are cabs waiting at all the major hotels. We hailed cabs off the street
many times with no problems and never ran up a fare beyond $6.00. Although no driver was fluent in English
they all understood the places we wanted to go and delivered us in a safe and efficient manner. Fixed
rates run $1 within town, $3 between town and either hotel zone, about $8 from most hotels to the airport,
and $10-$15 from the northern hotels or town to Chankanaab Park or San Francisco Beach.
Cruise-ship passengers taking taxis to or from the international terminal are often charged about twice as
much as tourists staying on the island. The cost from the cruise-ship terminal to San Miguel should be $4.
Beaches
Cozumel's beaches vary from long, treeless, sandy stretches to isolated coves and rocky shores.
Most development is on the leeward (western) side, where the coast is relatively sheltered by
the proximity of the mainland 12 miles to the west. Beaches on the windward (eastern) side
require transportation, but you'll find solitude.
Leeward Beaches
The best sand beaches lie along 3 miles of the southern half of Cozumel's west side.
*Playa Santa Pilar and Playa San Juan run along the northern hotel strip and have rocky shores
with little sand. There is little privacy here, and parts have been blocked off by retaining walls
built by numerous hotels.
*The first beach south of the International Cruise Dock is Nachi-Cocom. It fronts the Casa del Mar hotel
but is open to everyone. Just south of Parque Chankanaab is Playa Corona, which shares access to the Yucab
reef and offers the same brilliant marine fauna and wonderful flora as the park next door. Snorkeling
equipment is available for rent and the restaurant here serves conch and shrimp ceviche.
*South of Playa Corona lies Playa San Francisco, a 3-mile stretch of sandy beach that's considered one of
the longest and finest on Cozumel. Comprising the beaches known as Playa Maya and Santa Rosa, this beach
is usually packed during high season with cruise-ship passengers. On Sunday it's also crowded with locals
and due to its popularity is the most expensive beach on the island. Amenities include: two outdoor
restaurants, a bar, dressing rooms, gift shops, volleyball nets, beach chairs and a variety of water-sports
equipment for rent. Divers also use this beach as their jumping-off point for the San Francisco reef and
the Santa Rosa wall. The abundance of turtle grass in the water, however, makes this a less-than-ideal
spot for swimming.
*Just south of San Francisco, Punta Clemente (the main section of Playa San Clemente) and Playa Sol have
complete facilities, including a restaurant-bar, shops, and snorkeling and other water-sports equipment
rentals; you can even rent horses and trot down the beach. Excellent for swimming, these two beaches
can also get crowded with cruise-ship passengers.
*Continue heading south to the beach at Palancar. The gently sloping shore lined with palm trees is far
quieter than San Francisco to the north. Offshore is the famous Palancar Reef.
Windward Beaches
The east coast of Cozumel features a succession of deserted rocky coves and narrow, powdery beaches on
the turquoise Caribbean. Swimming can be treacherous if you go too far out - in some parts there is a
deadly undertow that can sweep you out to sea in minutes. But they are perfect for solitary sunbathing.
I like to think I'm slightly adventurous but a brief terrifying experience with a powerful undertow in
Puerto Rico taught me to have great respect for this warning.
*At El Mirador is Playa Paradiso or Playa Bush, the southernmost of the windward beaches. This windswept
piece of beach is good for beachcombing or sunbathing.
*North of Playa Paradiso, Punta Chiqueros is a moon-shape cove sheltered from the sea by an offshore reef.
Part of a longer stretch of beach that most locals call Playa Bonita, it boasts fine sand, clear water,
and moderate waves.
*A little less than 5 km (3 mi) north of Punta Chiqueros, Chen Río is good spot for camping or exploring.
The waters are clear and the surf is not too strong, due to the rock formation that protects the small bay.
A long stretch of beach called Playa de San Martin starts here. In May and June, when the moon is full,
turtles come here to lay eggs. If you visit the beach during that time you may be stopped by soldiers
who are there to prevent poaching of the turtle eggs.
*A bit farther north is Punta Morena, which surfers and boogie-board lovers have adopted as their official
hangout. Here the strong surf makes for great waves.
*The last beach before the road turns westward into town is Playa Oriente, a typical windward beach -
great for beachcombing but unsuitable for swimming.
*Where the paved road ends and the dirt begins starts a long stretch of deserted beach ending at Punta
Molas at the island's northern tip. It's unspoiled and quite beautiful.
Cruising to Cozumel
You'll need to check the cruise lines itinerary to see how long you'll be in Cozumel and plan your visit
accordingly. I have listed the major cruise lines visiting the island below.
Carnival Cruise Line, Celebrity Cruise Line, Commodore Cruise Line, Costa Cruises, Disney Cruise Line,
Holland America Line, Norwegian Cruise Line, Princess Cruises and Royal Caribbean Cruises.
Several smaller companies like Regal also have Cozumel on their itineraries.
Sources
National Tourism
Fideicomiso de Promocion Turistica de Cozumel
Tel: (987) 8727585 / 8725098
Fax: (987) 8722809
fideicomisocozumel@islacozumel.com
www.islacozumel.com
Hotels
Paradisus Cozumel All-Inclusive Beach Resort & Country Club
1 800 33 Melia
www.solmelia.com
Presidente Inter-Continental Cozumel
011 52 987 872 9500
www.interconti.com
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